Sailing in style: Inside an ultra-luxe Alaskan cruise experience

How many times have you gone on holiday only to return, exhausted and travel-weary, feeling like you need another break just to recover from it? I'm quite soundly convinced luxury cruising is the solution to this conundrum.

From the minute we step on board with Regent Seven Seas Cruises, greeted by the Seven Seas Explorer crew's beaming faces and a similarly bubbly glass of champagne, relaxing in luxury is pretty much the only option available. The well-timed trip has come after a particularly rough six months for me, so I'm looking forward to smoother seas - those of Alaska's Inside Passage, in fact, on a seven-night cruise from Vancouver to the port town of Seward.

We acquaint ourselves with the ship's common areas - glass of bubbly in hand - and marvel at the opulent design of every space we discover. A grand double staircase below an enormous chandelier in the ship's atrium sets the tone, as does a velvety two-storey theatre at the ship's aft and a decadent day spa at its front (delightfully relaxing massage a must-do!). A thoughtfully curated collection of artworks adorns the walls throughout. Aesthetes will no doubt find pieces to admire, but even I - not an aficionado by any stretch - marvelled at a Picasso, drink in hand again, as we waited to be seated for dinner one evening.

Within a couple of days, several crew members are greeting us by name: our steward as he ensures our daily room refresh and nightly turndown service, the pool deck dining attendant who remembers our go-to snacks, and bartenders who take note of our go-to drinks and are always nearby to offer refills. For those who like a beverage, there are plenty of spots to wet your whistle. We enjoy free-flowing drinks from an extensive menu at the Observer Lounge alongside the grand piano. The Explorer Lounge has a more intimate feel while the Meridian Lounge has a cocktails and high-tea vibe. It's used daily for afternoon tea and the drinks menu features gin creations served in balloon glasses. I was pleased to find out on "cheesecake day" that afternoon tea is themed on sea days. A baked New York for the purists, red velvet cheesecake for the adventurous, dulce de leche for the sweet tooths ... a variety for every inclination.

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Early on we have a lovely chat with a singer and dancer from the cruise ensemble, who as it turns out grew up on the South Coast of NSW. The pianist, Wallison Melo, hails from Brazil. His playing is just the kind of expert that looks effortless and feels immediately soothing. We make friends with an American couple who also sit by the piano a few nights in a row, all watching the snow-capped mountains rolling past until the Alaskan sun starts to set near midnight. Wallison invites requests, so I vote for whatever he enjoys playing most. Jazz, he says, sometimes blues. But what most excites him of late, he whispers, is Rachmaninoff. Should he play us a bit? It's not piano-bar-type listening, he warns. Most definitely, I say. He puts the lid down, "just to quieten things down a little". It's emotive and consuming. Highs, lows, fast, slow. The ocean laps at the cruise ship and entirely surrounds us. Wallison gets lost in the piece, covering the keys from end to end with hypnotising ease and speed.

Executive chef Ronald Marczak, also Brazilian, is a charismatic presence, popping up at each of the restaurants in the evenings and mingling with guests. There are three specialty restaurants, the French-inspired Chartreuse, Asian-fusion Pacific Rim and Prime 7's elevated American fare - think succulent ribs and steaks. When Ronald comes to speak with us he asks my mum's intended order, taking the time to find out more about her flavour preferences and steering her toward a different dish based on her answers. She enjoys it so deeply she immediately has us off to the Reservations Desk to book a second dinner at Chartreuse.

Though there's more than enough to keep you occupied on board, there's also a wide selection of shore excursions included in the fare. From walking and bus tours (to get to know the cities you visit; on our cruise, they include Ketchikan, Juneau and Skagway) to scenic hikes and bike tours, culinary experiences and wildlife tours. An additional offering of paid tours means you can take your days ashore to new heights - literally, with helicopter tours of glaciers a worthy investment. (See opposite page.) And with all of that excitement, a good night's sleep is vital. Every suite on board has an ocean view, it's just the size of the balcony that varies. All windows have blockout blinds, closed nightly as part of your turndown service. In some of the upper-tier rooms, you'll be treated to a pillow menu.

In a nutshell, Regent Seven Seas cruise is just what you'd hope for when investing in a splash-out holiday with relaxation at its core. Got money to drop on a restful time at sea with scenery you'll recall in stories for years to come? Splurge a little. Relax a lot.