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Vienna throws a year-long party for its original 'rockstar' - join the waltz

This European hotspot is having a moment.

Strauss statue in Stadtpark.
Strauss statue in Stadtpark.
By Sue Wallace
Updated April 3, 2025, first published March 14, 2025

The Waltz King, Austria's celebrated Johann Strauss II, often appeased lovesick fans by selling his poodles' black curly locks as a treasured keepsake, instead of his own hair. "Women wanted a part of him, and he would have ended up bald if he had to cut his own hair," says our guide, Jascha Novak of Hidden Vienna Tours.

Strauss Museum in House of Strauss.
Strauss Museum in House of Strauss.

I am in Vienna for the start of the year-long Johann Strauss Festival celebrating his 200th birthday and his iconic music. It's a big birthday bash for the country's first rockstar, who was mobbed and feted wherever he went. His father, Johann Strauss I, also a celebrated musician, feared his son would outshine him and forbade him to play, destroying his violin. But Strauss jnr nonetheless did outshine his dad, with the help of his mother, who was looking for a new breadwinner to replace her unfaithful husband. She took over her son's musical management and he became an international sensation. Strauss composed more than 500 rousing polkas, marches, quadrilles, operettas, a ballet and many toe-tapping waltzes - his most famous is The Blue Danube, composed in 1866. It's known as Austria's unofficial anthem and as Jascha says, it evokes an urge to get up and waltz.

"Strauss II kindled emotion and passion from his audiences, who flocked to see his concerts in Vienna and Boston, Lisbon and St Petersburg," Jascha says. "Women swooned over him, and he was a real entrepreneur." Jascha loves showcasing his home city, where music is more popular than soccer and nightly concerts attract more than 10,000 music lovers - triple the number in high tourism season. It's also the scene of 450 glamorous annual balls attended by thousands, who show off their waltz skills well into the early hours of the morning. A stop at the famous Bitzinger sausage stands is also customary as the sun rises.

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The Waltz King.
The Waltz King.

The waltz is a national pastime and continues to grow in popularity, according to the Master of Dance, the charming Professor Thomas Schfer-Elmayer, the third generation to instruct Vienna's youth at his historic dance school.

How hard is it? Today we join a class in the restored House of Strauss Museum, home to the world's only surviving original concert hall, where all four Strauss legends performed. Located in Vienna's 19th district, the four geniuses, Johann Strauss I, Johann Strauss II and his brothers Josef and Eduard Strauss, created works here that enchanted the world.

Strauss music fills the hall as Professor Elmayer, who is also an expert in Austrian etiquette and has written many books on the subject, shares his waltz secrets: "One, two, three, one two three, feet together and turn," he says as he glides over the polished timber floor. No gliding for me - instead I'm out of time and always on the wrong foot - it's my second lesson at the school in five years and I am still no better.

Later we meet, Dr Eduard Strauss, the great-grand-nephew of Strauss II, who is determined his music lives on. "He was a thoroughbred musician, his music appealed to people from all walks of life and even today it creates positive feelings that go straight to the heart," he says.

Museum in the House of Strauss.
Museum in the House of Strauss.

Vienna is staging the greatest Strauss tribute to celebrate his musical genius with 250 performances and events until December 31. They include classical and contemporary concerts, operettas, plays, dances, circus shows, installations, exhibitions and films. The more unusual includes a cemetery performance where Strauss is buried, and 2025 entrants will do a warm-up waltz to The Blue Danube at next month's Vienna City Marathon.

After a week of waltzing, concerts and museums, I'm not suffering from Strauss overload. Instead, I have a dose of what the Viennese call "lebensgefuhl" - a wonderful feeling of wellbeing you get in Austria and want to take home.

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TRIP NOTES

Getting there: Vienna is a one-stop flight from Australia on airlines including Emirates, Etihad and Qatar.

Staying there: The elegant Hotel San Souci Wien is well located near public transport and cultural attractions. sanssouci-wien.com/en

See + do: Schonbrunn Palace Concerts (palaceconcertsvienna.com) showcase Strauss and Mozart music in the Schonbrunn Orangery, nightly. The Strauss Dinner Show (straussdinnershow.com) is a fun night under a red velvet big top with Strauss melodies, ballet performances and an Austrian dinner.

Explore more: austria.info; strauss.vienna.info; viennacitycard.at; johannstrauss2025.at

FIVE MORE WAYS TO CELEBRATE

1. Johann Strauss Museum - New Dimensions: The shiny new permanent city centre exhibition, which opened last November, is a fascinating multimedia deep dive into Strauss's private life and loves. He once wrote 150 love letters to Olga, who he dumped after his mother disapproved. He had three wives, Jetty, Lily and Adele, and no children. Brothers Josef and Eduard were involved in the business but in a tragic twist Eduard burnt hundreds of Strauss manuscripts. Don GPS-enabled audio headphones and compose your own waltz with technology before you leave. johannstraussmuseum.at

The concert hall at the House of Strauss Museum.
The concert hall at the House of Strauss Museum.

2. House of Strauss Museum: Mastermind Hermann Rauter redeveloped the historical site where four of the Strauss dynasty performed. The museum tour is narrated by Thomas Strauss, the great-great-great-grandson of Johann Strauss II. Award-winning chef Stefan Glantschnig serves Viennese cuisine in the restaurant. The concert hall features ceiling frescoes and opulent chandeliers. houseofstrauss.at

3. Johann Strauss Exhibition: This vibrant exhibition which opened in December at the Theatermuseum Vienna showcases the glamour of the Strauss era. Original objects from performances are on display and include the score from Die Fledermaus. Until June 23. theatermuseum.at

4. Wien Museum: Reopened in 2023, with a stunning new design, it features a permanent presentation Vienna. My History spanning three floors with 1700 objects. It's a chronological tour of the city including Strauss connections and it's free. wienmuseum.at

5. Strauss's Home: Strauss composed The Blue Danube in a chic Praterstrasse apartment on the fashionable boulevard in the 1860s. There's a Bosendorfer piano and an Amati violin from his private collection, plus portraits and music scores. wienmuseum.at/johann_strauss_wohnung

The writer was a guest of Austria Tourism.