I've skied in New Zealand for 25 years - here's what most Aussies get wrong

It's not until the third day of my New Zealand ski trip that it dawns on me: I haven't heard a single Australian accent yet. On my last chairlift ride up Turoa - one of two New Zealand North Island ski resorts almost all Aussies overlook - I could've done with an interpreter, so thick was the Kiwi accent of the snowboarder chatting to me. About 1.52 million Australians travelled to New Zealand in 2025; more than half of them went to Queenstown, but almost none come here.

I've been snowboarding for 25 years in New Zealand, and this is what you're all doing wrong: you're not realising there's more to skiing here than Queenstown (and Wanaka). Have a genuine local ski experience (which is a great culture trip as Kiwis are a different breed to Aussie skiers) - among actual Kiwis - and for less money, at North Island resorts instead. Lift tickets are cheaper and accommodation options include more opportunities to mix with locals.

And you'll be skiing among the most striking scenery in New Zealand. Mount Ruapehu is an active volcano (relax, it's dormant) and North Island's tallest mountain at 2797 metres, over half a kilometre higher than Kosciuszko and part of the country's only UNESCO Dual World Heritage site (Tongariro National Park). Picture old lava flows creating rocky landscapes covered in snow among golden tussock grass and green rivers. All among quirky Kiwi ski towns like Ohakune.

Two ski resorts - Turoa and Whakapapa - are located halfway up the North Island, on two sides of Mount Ruapehu. These resorts feature New Zealand's largest skiable terrain, its highest chairlift and its largest beginner area (Happy Valley at Whakapapa). And they're both on the same lift ticket, unlike Queenstown and Wanaka where most commercial resorts have their own pricing arrangements.

You can fly to either Wellington or Auckland - there are more than 30 direct flights to each, every day. Then drive three-and-a-half hours from Wellington or four-and-a-half hours from Auckland. Or take the Northern Explorer Train to Ohakune from $NZ104 ($87) and hire a car (all major car hire companies operate at Mount Ruapehu).

You can also fly to Hamilton with Jetstar, then drive two hours. But you won't necessarily need a car, shuttle services operate throughout, and the ski resorts are less than a 20-minute drive away on sealed roads.

You're unlikely to see many Australian skiers at any time - I've been coming to the North Island to ski since 2001, and there seem to be fewer than ever. For 15 years, Australians have been flocking to Queenstown in ever increasing numbers - as many as 4000 hit the slopes there every day of winter school holidays.

But make sure you avoid New Zealand school holidays (from September 26 to October 11 this spring). Auckland and Wellington residents crowd Mount Ruapehu during school holidays. Also avoid weekends in peak winter season ((July-August) and ski midweek when passes cost about $NZ56 less than weekend day passes.

And consider the late season - mid-to-late October. Almost all ski resorts in Australasia close on the first weekend of October, but Mount Ruapehu has the longest ski season of any resort in the southern hemisphere.

Base yourself in Ohakune to access Turoa. It's a buzzing ski town encapsulating Kiwi ski culture, which feels a lot more laid-back and raw than our own. There are plenty of bars, cafes and restaurants; Kings Ohakune epitomises them, with its pool tables and dart boards and hearty pub schnitzels.

Ohakune is where you'll find most accommodation options, too. There's everything from great value, self-catering favourites, such as Rocky Mountain Chalets (with its own hot pools) and The Parks Motor Inn, to fancier chalet rooms at centrally located Powderhorn Chateau.

Or base yourself in Waimarino to access Whakapapa ski area in 15 minutes. A local couple will look after you at Manowhenua Lodge, which is ideal for families (try economy family rooms or bunk bedrooms); or enjoy the convivial vibe at The Park Hotel, with views over Tongariro National Park.

There's also 48 on-mountain lodges run by Ruapehu Mountain Clubs Association offering communal-style accommodation for visitors wanting to immerse themselves completely in local ski culture.

Lots. While it's not the Adventure Capital of the World (you win, Queenstown), it's not far off.

Ruapehu is located close to New Zealand's best one-day trek, Tongariro Alpine Crossing, but the region is criss-crossed with some of NZ's best hikes of all lengths which are (mostly) easy to do in winter.

It's also one of the country's best mountain-bike regions, with shuttle services and hire shops all over. You can also bathe nearby in geothermal pools at Fernland Spa or take NZ's highest gondola (Sky Waka gondola) at Whakapapa to the country's highest restaurant, Knoll Ridge Chalet, for views from 2020 metres high.

Turoa and Whakapapa ski areas offer the cheapest lift tickets of any larger ski area not just in New Zealand, but in New Zealand and Australia combined. There are always early-bird specials (for next year, from $NZ299 for a season pass) and there are multi-day special offers.

Midweek day passes start at $NZ109. These are at least 20 per cent cheaper than other major ski resorts in Australia and New Zealand. Weekend day passes start at $NZ165 - also offering similar savings.

There are always negatives. Mount Ruapehu is a very tall and exposed mountain - so it gets very windy, often.

Expect more wind-hold days than most South Island ski resorts. But there are plenty of off-piste activities, and the Happy Valley beginner area at Whakapapa is more sheltered.

The writer travelled courtesy of Visit Ruapehu