9950 people, 20 decks: this brand-new ship is testing the limits of cruising

Royal Caribbean has built its reputation on creating the biggest resorts at sea. With each new launch, the sky-high stack of attractions becomes more audacious. From a distance, the 20 towering decks and thousands of cabins seem to defy gravity, but somehow it achieves the balancing act of appealing to multiple generations. A floating holiday universe may look overwhelming but this staggering choice is what entices families seeking to entertain toddlers, teenagers, parents and grandparents.

Launched in July 2026, Legend of the Seas accommodates 5610 guests at double occupancy, and a mind-boggling maximum of 7600 when every bed is occupied. This is the 30th ship in the Royal Caribbean fleet and the third in its groundbreaking Icon Class. In theory, the three Icon vessels are the largest cruise ships ever built, but technically, Legend is 30 centimetres longer than siblings Icon of the Seas and Star of the Seas.

Stretching 365 metres in length, the ship is divided into eight neighbourhoods, so it feels more like a seaside precinct. Passengers can choose from adrenaline-pumping experiences at Thrill Island; laidback fun at Chill Island; the tranquil gardens of Central Park; the bustling Royal Promenade of shops, bars and cafes; Surfside kids' zone with a carousel, arcade games, and "splash and play" pool; and the multi-level AquaDome with a food hall and AquaTheater presenting high-diving shows.

In the main lobby, The Pearl is an eye-catching four-deck sphere with more than 600 LED mirror panels that change colour throughout the day and night. At the base of the staircase is a kennel for Skipper, the resident dog, who makes adorable appearances throughout each voyage.

The top-deck waterpark is a whole destination in itself, with a record-breaking six waterslides, seven pools, a swim-up pool bar, and the adults-only Hideaway at the stern, with an outdoor bar and DJ to enhance the summer party vibe.

With 2805 cabins, Legend of the Seas has accommodation for every budget, from windowless inside cabins to some of the most extravagant suites at sea. Way up high on deck 12, my cabin (easy-to-remember number 12344) has a comfortable queen bed, sofa, desk, modern bathroom and balcony where I enjoy room-service breakfast.

Larger staterooms for four to six guests are relatively spacious, but my top pick is the three-storey Ultimate Family Townhouse, which has a cinema room, an indoor slide connecting two floors (because there's clearly no fun in walking down stairs), and a private patio leading straight into the Surfside neighbourhood.

I have only four days to choose from 40 bars and restaurants, so I try most of the free places to eat. My first stop is El Loco Fresh for Mexican snacks and margaritas. Making your own burrito at the self-serve station is better than the bland pre-made versions. The next day I have lunch at SeoulMate, a new Korean grab-and-go outlet, which makes a tasty beef bulgogi. La Espanola, the Spanish option, has lighter sandwiches and tapas. After the gym, I get a protein smoothie from Simply Pressed.

For an extra cost, you could experience the new immersive restaurants such as the art deco Hollywoodland Supper Club, with live jazz and cocktails. I would have loved dinner at the Royal Railway, but it costs $US165 ($235) per person. Diners sit in a train carriage while the digital "windows" show scenery from China, India, Turkey and Italy, matching the cuisine of each dish.

The two liveliest night spots are Duelling Pianos, where I enjoyed a rowdy singalong with two pianists and a tipsy crowd, and the Latin dance bar, Boleros. Lou's blues bar, in Central Park, was great for live music. The best cocktails are mixed at 1400 Lobby Bar. Order the Fourteen Hundred, just so you can pop the citrus bubble that sits on top.

Royal Caribbean's entertainment is as high quality as any show on land. Broadway-calibre theatre productions include Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, starring child actors for the first time at sea. I was blown away by the Fusion ice-skating spectacular and Shockwave: A Battle for the Beat, where divers launch from high platforms into an indoor pool, combining acrobatics, dancing and robotic technology. Theme nights include Millennium Mania, Welcome to the Jungle and a Silent Toga Party.

During the day, you can play pickleball and soccer, join in daily trivia or game shows such as The Price is Right, or try activities like laser tag and escape rooms.

Do as I say, not as I didn't. Crown's Edge is a walkway suspended 50 metres above the ocean, which starts as a ropes course, before a trapdoor floor drops from beneath your feet, swinging you around the side of the ship. For proof that you're a legend of the Legend, you receive a video of yourself in action.

Legend of the Seas has 2350 crew, yet the service is impressively efficient and friendly. Even in the most crowded venues, I never waited long to be served (although my preview sailing was only half-full). Bartenders and waiters work quickly with a smile. Cabin attendants remember everyone's names and clean your room daily. No matter where you go, crew will always say hello and help you. As the world's leader in family cruising, Royal Caribbean combines big-ship energy with genuine warmth.

The writer was a guest of Royal Caribbean