There's no ice wall, but there are some very strange rituals.


Anyone arriving at the Arctic Circle might expect to receive an icy reception, but the ocean does not freeze over and polar bears don't extend a growling greeting. The ship just sails across an invisible line and carries on normally. No sign, no buoy, no bump.
Cruise lines celebrate this odd occasion with ceremonies and rituals. One maritime tradition is for first-timers to get their noses painted blue. Others plunge into a hot tub filled with ice cubes or dip their foot into a bucket of iced water.
Cruising with Atlas Ocean Voyages in Norway last week, I crossed the Arctic Circle for the second time. Obviously, I needed to check that the invisible line was still there.
As we approached 66°33' N latitude, passengers gathered at the observation lounge for a party. Before reaching the boundary, we went out on deck when the ship passed the Arctic Circle monument on a remote island. It was freezing and raining, but that suited the theme.
Cruise director Tee led a countdown, New Year's Eve style, and we cheered and clinked our fluorescent blue Arctic Drop cocktails.
I think it was a missed opportunity for everyone to stand in a circle and simultaneously jump "over the circle" when we hit the spot.
Unlike a state border, this imaginary boundary is always moving. Each year it shifts about 14 metres because its position is tied to Earth's axial tilt.
On maps, however, the Arctic Circle line remains in the same place for convenience.

Geographically, it marks the southernmost latitude where the sun can remain above the horizon for 24 hours around the summer solstice. In winter, the reverse occurs, with round-the-clock darkness.
In August, we experienced all-day, all-night sunlight. It's hard to know when to go to bed when the midnight sun looks like the midday sun, so the poor bartenders worked overtime. Thankfully, the cabins have blackout curtains.
Crossing the Arctic Circle is a milestone rather than a spectacle. You don't see it, you feel it, and you receive a certificate to prove it. The real reward is what comes next: continuing north into a landscape that becomes increasingly wild and isolated.
Take a moment on the bow, where everything is very visible, knowing you have entered a part of the world where few people ever go.
In the polar weather, especially on Zodiac excursions, your phone is subject to the sea spray, rain, snow and wet fingers. A waterproof case is essential to protect it from the elements. Decathlon's watertight phone pouch allows you to keep taking photos as the touchscreen can be used through the plastic. It's also handy when kayaking, whale-watching, or going to the beach on summer cruises. If you drop it in the ocean, the pouch is waterproof up to two metres. Keep it around your neck and your phone stays dry, accessible and safely attached to you. decathlon.com.au







