An overdue ode to the ocean

IT'S fair to say my first stay at Sydney's Manly Pacific hotel was underwhelming. A pervasive memory is brown carpets, chairs, cushions, cupboards. Even the windows were tinted a murky hue so as to hide that lovely, big, famous beach beyond. Also: heavy curtains, a dingy and daggy bar, an uninviting reception space. The stay was a birthday surprise from my then-boyfriend and while we had a good time, the accommodation wasn't worth raving about. Fast forward a decade (and a marriage) and we are raving. The hotel is now part of Accor's MGallery collection and has had a $30 million facelift, totally remodelling a chunk of rooms, brightening up the place and creating a smiley service environment that shines.

Our chic-but-comfy two-bedroom, two-bathroom coastal suite - one of nine - feels more like a home, with lots of space and stylish furnishings. Local products - art, booze, surf wax - abound and surround. They have done away with single use plastics, but offer Leif skincare products made with native botanicals. Sitting on the roomy balcony is great fun. By 7am, dozens of pram-pushers, joggers, dog walkers and cyclists dot the promenade. Later, we watch a frenetic, hotly-contested surf carnival and, at night, a different passing parade - giggling kids, guys in sombreros, girls on the town.

Coastal glam: open spaces, light and glass, a beachy white and blue-grey colour scheme and furnishings and styling by Coco Republic, in the Aussie design company's first-ever hotel project. Walk in and you're greeted by a friendly polo-shirted Beach Club operative, who'll get your car parked, talk you through the activities or point you where you need to be. They also hand out shots in the morning: wellness shots, natch.

The "transformation" also includes a refreshed facade and 213 redesigned rooms (including The Infinity Residence with private butler and masseurs on tap). The rooftop pool and sundeck have been zhuzhed up and there's a sauna and cabanas coming.

The old "Zali's" is now Bistro Manly - still with a fabulous breakfast buffet but a fancier, French-inspired lunch and dinner. More casual is Tokyo Joe on the other side of reception. Our hot tip? Ask them to pack a picnic to take to the beach. 55 North is now a quality lobby bar with excellent cocktails, bar food and live music: sit by the street, cosy up to the lovely bar staff or join friends around the tables. Of course, it's the location you're here for and there are plenty of super-close, delicious options - modern seafood at Garfish, people watching and a heaving menu at Hugo's and Manly Pavilion for a glam meal with a view.

Ask the Beach Club for any local discounts and activities to suit. We meditate with gorgeous instructor Gabi by the ballroom windows, take yoga on the grass outside and do cryotherapy at the Stay Young Cryo clinic nearby. We also hit Bare Beauty house for an indulgent holiday massage and a blow dry - with nary a comment made about our crazy beach locks. Guests can use the gym next door anytime.

This is a hotel for everyone. Patronage is eclectic - you're just as likely to be in the lift with barely-clad grommets as a glammed-up farming couple en route to Moulin Rouge. Just before we leave, I make the 50-step dash across the road and dive into the luscious waves. It's glorious. I've loved the many non-beach activities over the weekend - but this is Manly, after all.

Kate Cox was a guest of Manly Pacific Hotel

WHERE: Manly Pacific, 55 North Steyne, Manly, NSW 2095

HOW MUCH: Rooms start at $279/night; Coastal Suites start at $1404/night