Check into this stylish Auckland hotel with a soulful past

A former wasteland of crumbling buildings has become a beacon for renewal.

The land the Hotel Britomart sits on was gifted by the Maori Iwi to New Zealand's first governor in 1840 to help establish the city of Auckland. After they had served their purpose, the buildings and facilities were left to decay, until Cooper and Company stepped in to regenerate, rescue and renew the whole nine-block precinct, including the four adjacent heritage buildings which now form the backbone, heart and soul of the Hotel Britomart. The hotel is also New Zealand's first 5 Green Star hotel, certified by the NZ Green Building Council. Impressive.

The hotel is just one part of the Britomart precinct, and where once stood derelict buildings is now a lively mix of boutiques and restaurants. Shoppers will love that Huffer, Karen Walker, Trelise Cooper, Sass & Bide, Tiffany, Chanel, Deadly Ponies, Jo Malone and Ted Baker are virtually out the front door, with a swag of eateries and cafes offering plenty of places to refuel on caffeine, cocktails or gourmet meals.

The mix of stone, recycled bricks, timber and glass with just the right amount of art and occasional splashes of colour - particularly in the high-ceilinged lobby - conjure up a chic, industrial yet homely vibe. The nooks and crannies around the hotel are worth seeking out if you want to read, have a cocktail, or both. The Britomart is less behemoth, more boutique. I particularly love the Libraries - Lounge, Wine Library and Chef's Library - which are beautifully curated spaces in which to relax, do a wine tasting, an event or just to have a cocktail on a very comfy sofa.

The Hotel Britomart has 99 rooms and five rooftop Landing Suites. Some rooms have views over the harbour or the city, while the room I am in, a Laneway Room, looks out over the interior courtyard of the hotel. The super king bed is up there with the best I have ever experienced, and the fact that the sheets are 100 per cent organic and the doona is filled with microfibre made from recycled plastic bottles, is a nice touch. The sleek tiled bathroom features Sans(ceuticals) organic hair and skincare products and I appreciate the selection of books, the hand-made ceramics made by local artisans and the minibar with its local organic products.

Kingi restaurant is located in the old Masonic building off the lobby and is an earthy space with exposed beams and a striking handmade 600-piece chandelier hanging from the ceiling around the bar. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, I drop in for lunch, admiring the menu of seafood sustainably caught by independent, local fishermen and women. I can highly recommend the starter of heirloom tomato, bay leaf and stone fruit and the antipasti of hot smoked kahawai (caught off Little Barrier Island), accompanied by one of the "interesting whites" on the wine list, a Foxes Island Sur Lie Aged Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough. For dinner, I choose Ghost Street, downstairs just off the laneway, and love its Sechuan cuisine prepared in the lively, open kitchen.

With its central location, walking distance from the Viaduct Harbour and with the array of shops, bars and restaurants outside the front door, the Hotel Britomart is the perfect base from which to explore Auckland. They have bikes that you can use for free to explore the area.

I still dream about the bed at the Hotel Britomart. I haven't slept that well in years.

Where: Hotel Britomart, 29 Galway Street, Britomart, Auckland

How much: $NZ439 ($402) a night

Explore more: thehotelbritomart.com

Helen Hayes was a guest of Hotel Britomart.

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