WA's Horizontal Falls a great adventure (just ask David Attenborough)

Mountains in the McLarty Ranges stretch into the Indian Ocean like long, red fingers. They form channels that guide some of the world's largest tides inland towards the Horizontal Falls.

It's a natural phenomenon that David Attenborough called "a compelling reminder of the colossal power of ocean tides". Millions of litres of seawater roar from Western Australia's coastal reefs through two narrow breaks in the Kimberley's red cliffs, lifting the water level by four metres to fill the serene and ancient Talbot Bay.

It's a ferocious sight set in one of Australia's most scenic natural reserves and, except for a few boats dotting the waterways, there's almost no signs of modern technology.

Horizontal Falls Seaplane Adventures now offer travellers a luxury overnight stay on the houseboat Jetwave Pearl to soak up the wonder of the Kimberley's sparkling jewel. We are welcomed onboard by the Traditional Owners of Dambeemangarddee Country, who have lived on this sacred land for 56,000 years.

They explain much of Dambeemangarddee Country was created by the writhing actions of a female Woongudd Snake - her power most obvious in the movement of tides and whirlpools in the region, such as at Garaanngaddim (Horizontal Falls).

The quickest route to the falls from Broome is an hour north via seaplane, which gives visitors a bird's eye view of the Dampier Peninsula, the rolling mountain range and the twisting waterways, all while hearing the region's most thrilling yarns from legendary pilot Yindi.

She's flown seaplanes in the Kimberley since 1989 and knows the ridges of the McLarty Ranges like the back of her hand. She lands travellers among the islands of the Buccaneer Archipelago near the two-storey Jetwave Pearl by Journey Beyond, anchored in the protected inlet of Cyclone Bay, not far from the falls.

The newly renovated houseboat sleeps 20 people with generous shared living and fine-dining spaces, and rooms with ensuites. The boat is a launchpad for high-octane adventure including speed boating, swimming with sharks, croc-spotting, helicopter joy-riding and fishing, all co-ordinated by a team of savvy onboard staff. Throughout your stay you'll see the Horizontal Falls from almost every angle. The views start from above as helicopter pilot Cam takes you diving through the mountains-turned-islands that rise 200 metres into the sky. Take note - Cam's removed the doors on the chopper so visitors can feel the wind and see the panoramic views. Just be sure to grip your phone. If anything drops into the water it belongs to the crocodiles, the guides tell me.

Speed boating through the larger gap in the Horizontal Falls is a thrill-seeker's dream. The Full Throttle navigates at high-speed through eddies and whirlpools created by the powerful tidal movements that threaten to throw the boat off course. And the ride is a great opportunity to see the detail in the cliff faces weathered by millions of years of erosion. Layers of straight rock that run along the Kimberley coastline suddenly twist and buckle into sharp folds around the falls.

Seaplane Adventures deckhand Tommy Sherer has been working in the region for three years and says he's astounded by the beauty of the marine park. "The falls change dramatically within an hour. They change dramatically within half an hour," he says.

Sherer has used his time in Talbot Bay to form a bond with the local wildlife and he's happy to introduce his new friends to visitors. He calls hungry tawny nurse sharks to the surface by banging the metal edge of a pontoon moored in Talbot Bay, sending sound vibrations into the water. The pontoon has a Perspex-windowed box for visitors keen to watch the sharks feed on off-cuts of meat.

On a good day Mr Sherer can spot dugongs, turtles, sea snakes, manta rays and dolphins mingling with the - relatively - harmless nurse sharks. Maybe mercifully, the region's territorial crocodiles avoid feeding with Sherer and the other animals. They stalk the mangroves and the water's edge of Talbot Bay and, if the tides are right, visitors might catch a glimpse of them.

An afternoon cruising the Buccaneer Peninsula in a nimble powerboat is capped off by dropping the anchor and throwing in a fishing line. The crew have barramundi to thread your hook and lure a passing stripey snapper. I can still taste the salty lips of the adolescent fish I kissed and threw back into Talbot Bay.

After a day of rollicking adventure visitors return to the warm embrace of the Jetwave Pearl. It's almost worth the long trip just to try chef Thibault Villanueva's grilled barramundi with cauliflower puree, caramelised apple and pickled red grape.

Far from the French culinary school where he trained, Villanueva cooks in the Kimberley to experiment with produce unique to the region. The menu varies depending on seasonality but Villanueva loves to cook with barramundi, Kakadu plum, lemon myrtle and black wattle. The next morning, I wake up to views of the sun hitting the red rock. It's been an action-packed stay with barely time to catch my breath, but this is the stuff of lifelong memories.

The writer was a guest of Journey Beyond. An 18-hour Soar Cruise and Overnight stay on Jetwave Pearl starts from $1215 and Ultimate Horizontal Falls Luxury stays start from $1700 for 24 hours.