Odyssey on a plate: why we can't get enough of fusion food

Maybe it's because of our penchant for travelling far and wide, or our pioneering, entrepreneurial and multicultural food identities, but Aussies seem to embrace the slashie food offering more than most, so much so that "modern Australian" is a difficult cuisine to describe.

The perennials - Greek/Italian, Turkish/Lebanese, and of course "Asian Fusion" - are ubiquitous, all over the nation. Indigenous ingredients now feature in so many menus, blending with a wide range of world cuisines. Some slashies have been around a long time. Srian Perera at Radio Cairo in Sydney's north lists a long list of "people and food" inspirations on his menu: Moroccan/Mexican/Yemeni/Chinese/Persian/European/African/Amazonian - and more. His corner digs have been packed with locals and travellers for more than 30 years.

At Atlas Dining in Melbourne, they go one step further. The South Yarra fine diner is 100 per cent inspired by the flavours of travel: since 2016, every few months, chef Charlie Carrington and his team create a different global menu and transform the entire restaurant to the theme of that country. Today, diners can take a "Greek summer vacation".

Then there are the more kooky offerings. Just launched in Sydney, down a hidden alleyway off George Street, is Bistro Nido, combining French and Japanese, where chefs Andrew Lee and Zachary Tan have become instantly Insta-famous for their unique global dishes such as blue fin tuna tartare with shotsuru and yuzu creme fraiche. The confit duck leg is in a galette, or savoury pancake, and comes with an egg, gruyere and kumquat shoyu. The roasted duck breast has pickled Kyoho grapes in a jus - and 30 grams of foie gras for an extra $20, or shaved truffles for $25. Totally discombobulating! But, somehow, it works.

Our travel-loving dining group spends the meandering meal reminiscing about global adventures of years gone by. We depart feeling well travelled, and especially well fed.