It's Bali, but better ... put this Indonesian island on your bucket list

It has the glorious beaches, the dramatic cliffs, and the stunning resorts and villas ... but minus the big crowds.

Bali refuseniks cite tattoo parlours, Australian-themed pubs, and beaches beset with bars and blaring music as reasons to abstain. I know - I was one. I'm happy to admit the error of my snobbery: Bali is far too varied and interesting to dismiss as an over-touristed holiday playground. And on my latest foray to the region, I bypassed the mainland entirely and discovered a smaller, slower-paced isle of paradisiacal proportions.

Nusa Lembongan, one of three that make up the Nusa Islands, is located just 15 kilometres across the Badung Strait from Bali's east coast, but it's miles away from the Kuta-style excesses that characterise some of the bigger island's hotspots.

It is a throwback to the Bali of old: less commercial, more laid-back and not a big-screen footy match in sight. Once the secret of shack-dwelling surfer-types, word of Lembongan's charms got out. Now, there are top-notch accommodation options and great food to bolster the sand, surf and eye-welling sunsets.

The eight-square-kilometre island is surrounded by coral reefs, its perimeter made up of arcs of craggy limestone cliffs, white-sand beach and clear water that appears milky-blue from a distance. Nusa Lembongan has its own microclimate thanks to its low-lying topography, guaranteeing a longer dry season: while the monsoon rages in Bali, skies over the island remain an untroubled blue.

Tiny though it may be, there's enough on Nusa Lembongan to fill any holiday schedule: epic surf breaks and diving; plentiful options for full-body pampering; island-chic resorts and family-friendly villas; and authentic warungs serving tasty Indo food for next to nothing. Set your clock to island time, take some deep, rejuvenating breaths - and make sure you do absolutely nothing, too.

The waters around Nusa Lembongan abound with marine life: 247 species of coral and 562 species of reef fish. Among the most mesmerising of inhabitants is the giant manta ray, whose wingspan can reach three metres. Made, who owns and runs Aquaman Snorkelling, grew up on the island and he and his crew are keen for visitors to see its wonders. I'm collected from my accommodation and taken to the well-equipped boat (water, snacks and diving gear are provided) on scooter-back.

The three-hour trip is worth it for the boat-ride alone, past sheer cliffs plunging into sea, rock formations like nature's bridges and archways furred with green, and Nusa Penida's impossibly perfect Kelingking Beach at the base of a rocky cliff. We stop at Mangrove Bay where green turtles paddle and Gamat Bay where tiny colourful fish dart among the hard coral. At Manta Point, manta rays flap languidly and we slip into the water to join them, watching in awe as they glide beneath us. aquamansnorkelinglembongan.com

From my position on a hillside overlooking Jungut Batu beach, I can see a wreath of dark grey storm clouds over Bali. Here in Nusa Lembongan, though, the blue sky is just beginning to deepen with dusk. At The Deck Cafe & Bar, a cute open-air establishment along a narrow boardwalk, the menu meanders from Asia (chicken and lemongrass lettuce cups; Japanese-style Indian Ocean squid) to Mexico (the fish tacos include ginger torch sambal and kemangi leaf) via Italy (a tiger prawn linguine is perfectly cooked), and the cocktails come with umbrellas (Paradise Poison: Bacardi Spiced Rum, jackfruit liqueur, dragonfruit, passionfruit and lime). The offerings are excellent yet completely overshadowed by that view to the distant silhouette of Mount Agung. thedecklembongan.com

Four main beaches on Nusa Lembongan each offer something slightly different. Jungutbatu Beach receives ferries from Bali and it's lined with cute restaurants, water-sport operations and shops. Mushroom Bay has clear, calm waters for all-day swimming, while Coconut Beach has lots of shady trees, wave-less water and soft, white sand. Dream Beach is a true beauty but its powerful waves and unpredictable current make it inadvisable for swimming.

I wander into Aloevera Lembongan (Jalan Raya, Jungutbatu) and find there's no need for much communication. "Massage?" I say hopefully. I'm directed to a massage table and for the next hour, I'm kneaded into a more pliable version of myself. Here, a full-body Balinese massage runs to about $15; at the upmarket Spring Spa & Sanctuary things are more salubrious, with private teak and stone treatment villas at which you'll arrive by golf buggy, a hair spa and a relaxation area overlooking the water. I'm lying face-down for my excellent Spring Signature Massage, but the views are cleverly captured in carefully placed mirrors under the table. They've thought of everything. Bookings are essential and a 60-minute massage costs Rp 470,000 ($45). springspa.com

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Wary (read: terrified) of waves and not given to athletic pursuits, my booking a two-hour surf lesson is uncharacteristically courageous. Nusa Lembongan is known for its ideal waves, so if I'm ever going to surf, this is the place. With visions of Blue Crush I don a wetsuit and, with the encouragement of Kadir of Monkey Surf, practise going from lying to standing in smooth and graceful fashion. I'm not bad, but we're still on the sand.

We board a small boat and motor out to Lacerations where the waves break offshore. Then we paddle out close to where the waves are breaking and wait as the instructors beckon us over a few at a time. We wait for a wave. Then it's paddle, paddle, paddle until the wave has caught me and suddenly, I'm flying. It's much harder and more thrilling than it looks and I make attempt after clumsy attempt to stand for two hours, until my arms protest and my face aches from smiling. I manage the feat twice and I feel a surging confidence. Maybe I'm not so scared of waves, after all? monkeyactivities.com

Nusa Lembongan's beaches are blissfully free of bars, day-beds and roving sellers of sunnies. Just beyond the sand, though, are plenty of options for eating, drinking and lazing the day away.

Sandy Bay Beach Club's open-sided transport vehicle picks me up and delivers me to this dreamy haven of relaxation at dusk where children make friends in the play area and frolic on the sand, bikini-clad girls paddle in the infinity pool, and groups order rounds of Bintang and share beef rendang tacos and tuna tataki. With views of the spectacular Devil's Tear rock formation and a pitch-perfect vibe, this is the spot to don your best beach chic - shoes optional. sandybaylembongan.com

The Beach House at Lago (lagobali.com) occupies prized real estate on a clifftop above Song Lambung beach and the Playgrounds surf break. There are five ocean-view villas with soaring pitched ceilings, and wood and rattan furniture. Wander down from your airy nest to the public Sundeck at Lago to make use of the sauna or ice-bath or take a stool under the banyan tree at Lago's Beach Cafe where yogis, Byron blow-ins and bronzed young travellers order snapper burgers with mango salsa, smoothie bowls piled with tropical fruits and iced coffees. Come sunset, jump in a tender and drift 100 metres offshore to The Pontoon, a floating bar, to sip a Lago Margi (its tropical edge comes from vanilla and passionfruit liqueur) and watch the day's last surfers tackle Playgrounds.

Getting there: Qantas, Jetstar, Virgin and Garuda Indonesia fly to Bali from Australia's capital cities. D'Stars Fast Ferry (dstarsfastferry.com) departs Sanur Port at 9.15am, 2pm and 5pm daily, with returning ferries departing Nusa Lembongan at 8am, 12.30pm and 4pm.

Getting around: Nusa Lembongan is mostly car-free. Taxi services come in the form of scooters or large open-air trucks with bench seats lining the long sides. To self-drive, hire a four or six-person golf buggy (about Rp 700,000 or $60 a day) - ask your accommodation provider to organise taxis, scooters or buggy-hire.

Good to know: Various important Hindu holidays throughout the year can affect travellers - on Nyepi (this year it fell on March 11) locals are required to abstain from work, and using electricity and entertainment. These restrictions are more closely observed on Nusa Lembongan than Bali - ferries don't run and accommodation may lack power or staff for a day.

Explore more: thelembongantraveller.com

The writer travelled on her own expense.