Two Ways to Go: Luang Prabang v Vientiane

Both Luang Prabang and Vientiane are spiritual strongholds that draw people from all over the world with their culture and history, but what's got you intrigued? Our experts help you decide.
By Amy Cooper
Things were easier back in the 14th century when Laos was called The Realm of a Million Elephants and a White Parasol. Although the old moniker would have required the world's most massive souvenir magnet, at least there was no debate about a silent or noisy "s". Back then, Luang Prabang (with a silent-ish "r") was the country's capital before it handed the gig to Vientiane. Maybe this was because Luang Prabang did not approve of truncating the nation's name from 10 words to one. Or perhaps the ancient capital had its eyes on the real prize: a UNESCO Heritage listing for spiritual and cultural splendour.
Vientiane might have the power, but Luang Prabang has the glory, listed since 1995 for its exquisite mix of traditional Lao and European colonial architecture. It's the country's spiritual centre, with some thousand monks among the population of 20,000 and more than 30 Buddhist temples - or wats - occupying a third of the town's total area.
Yes, when it comes to knowing wat's wat, it's Luang Prabang's time to shrine. From the oldest, Wat Wisunarat, thought to date back to 1512, to the domed Wat Xieng Thong, where kings were crowned, there are more wonderful wats than you can shake a fortune stick at. If they were pubs, this would be Dublin. Every dawn, hundreds of saffron-robed monks walk the streets with their alms bowls, accepting food offerings from Buddhist devotees. Graceful, respectful and serene - it's everything breakfast at my house is not, and all the more beautiful for it.
There are more wonderful wats than you can shake a fortune stick at. If they were pubs, this would be Dublin.
Luang Prabang is naturally blessed, too, situated where the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers meet, surrounded by jungle-cloaked limestone hills and calm river waters ideal for kayaking, rafting or sunset cruises accompanied by traditional live music while the cityscape turns flame and gold.
You'll fall for Kuang Si Falls, where layers of tumbling cascades and tiered turquoise pools flow 60 metres through emerald forest. And if you brave the 328 steps up the city centre's Phousi Hill, you'll be rewarded with a 360-degree Luang Prabang-orama. The Royal Palace Museum is magic for mosaics, murals and monarchy, you can discover Laos's diverse and eclectic ethnicities at the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre, and source a sustainable keepsake when you pop into Ock Pop Tok, a fairtrade weaving workshop where you'll get more Luang Prabang for your buck.
If like me, your favourite species is anything but human, you'll be enchanted by ethical elephant encounters at Elephant ViIlage Sanctuary and feeding baby sun bears at the Free the Bears Bear Rescue Centre.
While I don't want to slam Vientiane, it don't mean a thang if it ain't Luang Prabang.
By Mal Chenu
One of the most fascinating aspects of Laos is how to pronounce it. Some prefer the phonetic, as in "Hows youse pronounce Laos is grouse."
Correctly pronouncing Laos is a great way to simultaneously demonstrate your intelligence and pretentiousness. For those lacking either or both these traits, the S is silent, as in the French word "debris".

And debris is basically what the French colonists found when they arrived in what we now call Vientiane in the late 19th century. Before the French arrivée, the city was destroyed and looted by the Siamese, and the rebuilt Vientiane is heavily French-influenced.
While the previous actual history of the city is fairly prosaic, the Lao epic Phra Lak Phra Lam is far more stirring. It describes how a Naga, a seven-headed half-human, half-snake told Prince Thattaradtha to build a city he called Chanthabuly Si Sattanakhanahud. Prince T had already built Udon Thani across the river in Thailand, so this was one naggy Naga.
The post-Naga French impact is why you should start your day exploring the Laotian capital with coffee and a croissant at one of Vientiane's many patisseries.
In addition to the culinary leftovers, French colonial architecture remains, too, particularly in the old French quarter. They even have a Laotian version of the Arc de Triomphe called Patuxai, which you can climb for a fine view.
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Vientiane sits on the banks of the Mekong river, right on the border with Thailand. Its history, language and culture are closely aligned with that of the Thais, who benefitted from a greater population, stronger army and no silent S. The Lao experience in Vientiane surrounds the rich Buddhist traditions and numerous temples, headlined by Pha That Luang. This is the nation's most important cultural monument, both for its Buddhist significance and as a symbol of its powerful ancient kingdoms.
Pha That Luang's 45-metre-high golden stupa is cloistered by 85-metre-long walls and contains plenty of cool Naga carvings, as well as, it is said, the breastbone of the OG Buddha. It is achingly beautiful at sunset and thousands flock here for the country's biggest Buddhist festival each November.
Buddha Park, just outside the city, is home to more than 200 statues of the portly divinity, including a 40-metre-long reclining Buddha, along with assorted Hindu deities.
However you pronounce it, Laos has a plethora of sites and sights and is an eminently doable adjunct to your next south-east Asian sojourn.
Luang Prabang is just a 45-minute flight from Vientiane (or a couple of hours away by train) so you can easily check out both cities. But if you can only make it to one of them, Vientiane is the city with more Lao-factor.






