I checked in to the Venice hotel room where Monet stayed, ate ... and painted

The views of Venice don't get any better than from the window of my first-floor room at the St Regis hotel. The Grand Canal is shimmering right in front of my eyes, with thin silhouettes of gondolas drifting past. Across the waters, on one side, the timeless dome of Santa Maria della Salute is piercing the skies; on the other side, the Church of San Giorgio Maggiore is casting long shadows on the island it occupies.

But there's something even more magical about this view: 116 years before I arrive at this hotel (in October 1908, to be precise), French impressionist pioneer Claude Monet spent more than two months in this very room. In fact, he sat right by the window where I'm sitting today and painted artworks that now hang in some of the world's top galleries.

"Venice? No, I won't go to Venice," Monet had boldly declared in front of his friend and French novelist, Octave Mirbeau. Perhaps because the Venice of even those days was too touristy for the artist who was more used to the quiet solitude of Giverny.

But on the insistence of his wife, Alice, he relented and came to Venice ... for just one week.

They didn't leave the City of Canals for 68 days. And when they finally returned to Giverny, Monet was carrying a trunk full of 37 canvasses of Venice.

"There were many great hotels in Venice but this was the only one with electricity - perfect for Monet to paint after dark," says Elsa Gregori, who has worked at the hotel for 27 years and has authored the book, Palace of Wonders, which goes into great detail about the buildings that house the hotel and anecdotes related to Monet's stay.

While the property has changed ownership and names several times since its opening in 1860 (it was Grand Hotel Britannia when Monet stayed here), the view from this window has remained the same.

"I can assure you nothing about it has changed," says Elsa. "Venice is a medieval town and it is strictly forbidden to change the exterior look of buildings - nothing can be demolished and rebuilt."

Inside the room, however, it's a completely different story. While there are no photographic records, Alice's letters to her daughter reveal what the lair looked like in the early 1900s.

There was a canopy bed in the centre of the room, surrounded by a wardrobe, chairs, a sofa and many carpets - some of them hanging on the walls to keep the room warm in winter. There was a WC, too, but Elsa is quick to clarify that it was probably "just a sitting chair".

"A running-water system was only implemented in the 1930s, so the bathtub had to be manually filled with warm water."

The hotel underwent a significant revamp a few years ago, reopening as the stunning new St Regis in 2019. Needless to say, my room is a far cry from the Monet days.

The 80-square-metre suite features an enormous living room with a large, vibrant artwork by French painter - and Alice's nephew - Olivier Masmonteil. The bedroom is just as spacious, with a king-sized bed, fresh flowers and plush drapes. A walk-in-robe and a gleaming ensuite - with twin sinks and a deep standalone bathtub (and running water!) - complete the picture.

The biggest drawcards, however, are the two windows at the end of the living room.

Alice's letters reveal Monet used to go on gondola rides between 2pm and 4pm. "That's where he used to sketch," Elsa says.

From 4pm to 6pm, however, Monet used to sit by these very windows, when the golden autumn light was at its most magical. "That's when he used to paint."

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There are a number of Monet suites at the hotel - all offer similar aspects. But room number 1101, Elsa reveals, is the real deal and checking in to it is one way to feel like Monet. Another great way is to head to the hotel's waterside restaurant, Gio's. Alice's letters shine a light on the food the couple used to enjoy at the hotel.

1. Visit a museum: Located on Grand Canal, Ca' Rezzonico is a stunning example of 18th-century Venetian architecture, with opulent interiors, exquisite frescos and rare artworks that hark back to that era. It's also known for being the residence of English poet Robert Browning and American composer Cole Porter. carezzonico.visitmuve.it

2. Watch an opera: No trip to Venice is complete without a show at La Fenice - if not for its resilience (dating back to 1792, it's burned down three times, and been rebuilt every time) then for the fact that it's the site of some of the world's most famous opera premieres, including Giuseppe Verdi's La Traviata in 1853. teatrolafenice.it

3. Cool down with a gelato: Located on the bustling Fondamenta Zattere ai Gesuati promenade, with views of Giudecca Canal, Gelateria Nico is a local institution - particularly on a hot summer day. Elsa Gregori loves the gelateria's stracciatella ice cream. "Or have Gianduiotto; there's no way to explain it in English, but it's what Venetians have when they want to go on a stroll with a gelate in hand," she says. gelaterianico.com

4. Hit the canals: Venice is a collection of 118 islands, separated by canals but stitched together by 438 bridges. As touristy and expensive as it may be, a gondola ride is a must. But you can also explore the islands on Vaporetti (canal boats), which are part of the city's more affordable public transport system. venicepublictransport.it

5. Lose yourself: Some of Venice's most stunning sights appear from nowhere when you go for an aimless wander - often first thing in the morning.

The writer was a guest of St Regis Venice. Rooms at St Regis are from 900 euros ($1488) per night. See: marriott.com