Falling in love: The windswept romance of sailing on a masted ship

Just don't look down. I repeat the mantra to myself as I cling tightly to the rope ladder trying to appear braver than I am as I climb higher along the mast.

What looked like a simple task from down on deck is not so straightforward for someone who is not a fan of heights - well, those viewed from a gently swaying location anyway.

With shaky legs, I finally reach the top and it soon becomes clear why the effort is worth it; a new perspective of giant, billowing white sails and crystal blue ocean. A gentle wind blows as I cast my eyes towards the undulating land on the horizon.

It is obvious why the ship's sport attendants take it in turns to help climbers from the top of the ladder to the high platform - it's the best view on the ship. There is even a successful marriage proposal from this location during our journey.

With this bird's-eye view, I am sailing towards the rugged and beautiful landscape of Corsica, cutting sharply through the gentle waves on the Star Flyer sailing ship on a seven-night cruise of the French Riviera.

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Star Clippers' Star Flyer, which was built in 1992, is a modern small ship that combines luxury features (and an engine) with a long-gone, legendary era of sailing ships. It has more than 3344 square metres of sails billowing in the wind, polished teak decks and mahogany rails, and ropes and rigging to trip over (on occasion).

The romance of this ship should not be underestimated; it is simply magical skimming across the water, especially when the captain decides conditions are right to turn off the engine and travel like a sailing ship should.

As we arrive on the shores of L'Ile Rousse, or "red island", I breathe in the salty sea air and feel immediate peace. Beautiful white sandy beaches are playing host to holidaying families frolicking on the shore as others splash in calm, crystal blue water.

After alighting from the bright orange tender, the small boat used for transporting passengers back and forth from the ship, I take a pleasant (but hot) walk along the Promenade de La Marinella, absorbing the smells and sounds.

As it's lunchtime, I also peruse menus as I pass a string of bars and eateries before choosing a place right at the end of the strip with views straight over the ocean. The dish I order - linguine a' la bisque de gambas (pasta and prawns, but fancy) - is divine and I take my time enjoying it, while French conversation bubbles around me.

In the afternoon I wander the streets of the town, located in the Balagne region on the north-west of Corsica, looking at shops and life play out in the main square Place Paoli where tall plane trees provide shade for locals either resting or playing petanque.

Given the scorching afternoon heat, it's probably not the best decision to tramp up a steep hill to the lighthouse, but I just can't resist the lure of sweeping Mediterranean views. Youngsters swim in secluded enclaves away from the main beach and small boats drift by and, of course, the climb is worth it. I take it in turns with other hardy souls to stand in the small strip of shade the lighthouse affords while we admire the sights.

Back on the oceanfront where the tender will soon dock, I watch holiday life play out. Three girls shriek as they fall off the rubber ring their father is pulling along from his boat. Two boys dare each other to perform various flips and jumps off a concrete jetty.

Later that night, as the ship begins its journey to the next location, I lie on a deck chair and watch a night sky exploding with stars. After a while I shut my eyes and simply listen to the sounds of the ocean, the sails moving in the breeze as we charge swiftly along.

It's been almost 20 years since I last travelled to Europe, and this experience is not much like that one. Think carrying a large backpack, sleeping in 20-beds-to-a-room hostels and pocketing extra breakfast to have for lunch.

On the ship each night, my bed is prepared and a chocolate popped on my pillow, cheerful bar staff produce any drink you may desire, and delicious meals are served with artistic flair from the waitstaff. The cabin manages to effortlessly provide a balance between luxury and function: comfortable bed, room for storage and a lifejacket, and a full - albeit small - bathroom that has all the essentials. I peer out of the porthole which gives a view of the rolling ocean, while providing some natural light and glorious bright sunshine each morning.

Every evening before the ship sets sail for the next destination, the first bars of Conquest of Paradise by Vangelis (the composer of Chariots of Fire) ring out and the 16 sails are slowly raised in time to the crescendo of the music. It sends tingles up my spine, even on the last night when I know exactly what will happen.

We approach the village of Calvi midmorning under a pale blue sky with soft clouds, in sharp contrast to the dark-blue depths of the Mediterranean. On arrival, it's very hard to tear my eyes away from the view, casting between mountains that climb towards the sky, the marina with its sleek yachts bobbing on the water and the formidable citadel which towers over the village.

A few hours later, tour guide Aida will tell us that Calvi swells from about 5000 residents to 60,000 during the summer months of July and August. She says the town appeals to tourists because it has "a little bit of everything" - beach, history, mountains, shopping and good food.

As we wind our way on (very) narrow roads towards the ancient village of Sant'Antonino, perched high above the sea, she shares that on Calvi "the smaller the road gets, the more interesting it gets". This is true both with the near scrapes we have with cars coming the other way, but also the delightful places we encounter.

The village is one of the oldest inhabited places in Corsica, and in the 9th century it was ruled by the counts of Savelli who built the now-ruined castle to defend their clan. Wandering through the narrow, cobblestone lanes and admiring the stonework of the houses, and of course the view, you can see why this village is considered one of the most beautiful in France.

We stop to enjoy fresh, tangy lemon juice at a cafe and then continue our windy path towards the hilltop village of Pigna, home to a community of artisans and a number of sleepy cats who barely lift a whisker as we walk past. I don't know if it's the afternoon heat or lack of staff, but disappointingly all the cafes are closed. Fortunately, we can explore some of the artists' workshops - I watch a ceramicist for a while - and admire the view of the rolling hills and rugged coastline below.

In the late afternoon, I buy a chilled lemon drink from a bar and sit at a table fronting the marina just enjoying the views and the vibe of the seaside village. Aida says she visited the place five times in about two years before a friend suggested she just move there. So she did. I can understand the appeal.

Star Flyer hotel manager Paolo Testa says he will never tire of the beautiful sunsets aboard the ship, which is quite a statement given he became a seaman at the age of 19. He moved to Star Clippers after years working for larger cruise liners, and says it's quite an operation to provide the high-quality (and delicious) food from the small kitchen.

A Michelin chef back in Monaco plans the menu in a two-week rotation because some guests book back-to-back cruises. No meal is repeated with the exception of the lobster, which on a luxury cruise seems like something passengers are not likely to mind.

For Testa, "the dining room is the heart of the ship" where people make connections as they're seated with different companions each night, and even plan future trips together.

We arrive for a day at the beach in the region of Plage Saint-Antoine, another beautiful area with a shelly beach and plenty of people out early before it gets too hot. After landing on the shore Star Clipper sports attendant Svante Erlandsson, from Sweden, suggests it might be a good place to explore, with another beach about 20 minutes' walk away.

I eventually arrive at the smaller beach and slide into the calm, refreshing water. There are plenty of holidaying families here, parents watching on as their children splash in the waves, while others snorkel quite close to the beach. I realise why when a fish starts nibbling my leg.

I swim for about an hour - it's so calm that I can just float on my back - before I get out and lie in the sun for as long as I dare, drying off before heading back.

Cruise director Carlos Ferreira tells me later that nude sunbathing is pretty normal in France, but yes, he should perhaps have warned me. Ferreira, who speaks five languages fluently (the sixth, German, not so well, he admits), says huge cruise ships can't travel to these small villages because the infrastructure can't support the number of people being spat out onto the shore.

The Star Flyer might be a small ship, but that doesn't mean you can't find your own peaceful space, or forget where your cabin is. On the last night of the cruise, the captain tells us he's quite sad that things are coming to an end and I think we all agree.

I watch the last "sail away" with a tinge of melancholy. It's been a magical journey. To make the final night last longer, I stay up late on the top deck watching the stars and listening to the rush of the ocean. The captain has turned the engine off and we glide by wind power alone towards our final destination.

THE SHIP: Star Clippers' Star Flyer

THE SIZE: 115.5 metres long, 85 staterooms, 166 passengers

GOOD TO KNOW: All meals are included in the price, even a midnight snack. There is a laundry service available on board.

GET ON BOARD: Seven-night Corsica and French Riviera cruise on the Star Flyer starts at $3230 per person.

EXPLORE MORE: starclippers.com

The writer was a guest of Star Clippers.