Step aboard a ship so glamorous it feels straight out of a Humphrey Bogart movie

Anyone seeking a tequila-shot, pool-party, extravaganza-style cruise aboard the Oceania Riviera - which arrived in late November for its maiden Australia-New Zealand season - will no doubt be disappointed. If, however, you're looking for an experience that provides a focus on luxury-infused relaxation and fine dining, you've come to the right place.

The Riviera is a 1250-passenger vessel from the Oceania line that provides "small ship" level of attention to its guests along with accessibility to those ports unable to cater to the mega cruise liners. Launched in 2012, the Riviera underwent an extensive refurbishment in 2022, which makes it look very nearly brand new.

Of the 629 cabins, 96 per cent feature private verandas, which are the ideal spot for those moments of private vista gazing, or perhaps waving goodbye to less fortunate souls standing dockside, relegated to viewing the ship's opulence from a distance while cursing you beneath their breath. My Veranda Stateroom was comfortable at 27 square metres (including the balcony) and featured a soft, earthy decor with a colour palette ranging from stone-grey to a sand-intoned light brown. The most surprising feature of the cabin was the bathroom, which was remarkably large and included Italian marble throughout and more than ample storage space, plus a shower stall big enough to easily accommodate two.

Oceania promotes itself as having "the Finest Cuisine at Sea", and with good reason. There are a range of dining options, from the informal alfresco dining of the Terrace Cafe to the specialty restaurants offering French, Italian, steak and seafood, or Asian-fusion cuisine.

For lunch I developed a preference for Waves Grill with its range of burgers and club sandwiches making a great option for poolside dining. When it came to dinner, there was something quite special about the Grand Dining Room. An expansive room catering for up to 538 guests, the GDR, as my fellow cruisers referred to it, evokes old-world European luxury on the high seas. With its high ceilings and opulent decor it brings a sense of timeless style to the point that at any moment I'm expecting to see Humphrey Bogart or Grace Kelly stroll through the doors.

White-jacketed waitstaff glide about the chandeliered-ceiling room with a graceful economy, availing themselves of your every need, and even a few you don't realise you have. Dress code for the Grand Dining Room remains smart casual so there is no need for black-tie, however, if dressing to the nines is your thing, you definitely won't look out of place here. The French-inspired dishes, along with much of the dining aesthetics, are the handiwork of culinary director and world-renowned chef, author and television personality Jacques Pepin, whose namesake restaurant, Jacques, is one of the four specialty eateries.

Should you be in the mood for a drink, once again the Riviera has a number of options. Martinis is a classic cocktail lounge boasting 25 variations on its namesake classic gin and vermouth beverage. There is the Casino Bar for those taking a break from the blackjack table or just seeking a more intimate setting for conversation, while up on deck 14 is Horizons bar, offering panoramic views across the ship's bow and afternoon tea for when the sun is past the yardarm.

The main entertainment venue is the Riviera Lounge; a theatre-style room with a seating capacity of about 500. During my voyage the nightly shows consisted of Vegas-style variety performances featuring big-ish musical production numbers, featured vocalists, comedians, magicians and the sort. Despite the production standard of the shows being first class, the entertainment value of much of it was probably the least appealing aspect of the whole cruise, although this, of course, is a matter of taste. It just didn't appeal to me.

When you're not enjoying its culinary delights, the Riviera has a host of wellness activities designed to rejuvenate body and soul. To help work off calories, there is a well-equipped gym, an enclosed pickleball court and even an 18-hole miniature golf course to keep your putting game up to scratch.

Along with the food, the most notable aspect of the Riviera is its crew's seemingly boundless devotion to service.

Shortly after boarding, a young Indonesian steward by the name of Riki introduced himself, insisting that I call on him for any request. Upon discovering that my phone charger did not fit the cabin's outlet, I relayed this to Riki and within minutes he was knocking on my door with an appropriate charger in hand.

Throughout the voyage Riki seemed to take on a preternatural knowledge of my movements. Whenever I spent more than 30 minutes away from my cabin, I would return to find the room spotless. However, I was never able to catch anyone in the act of servicing my cabin, such was their ninja-like ability for undetected cleanliness.

The writer was a guest of Oceania Cruises