A South Pacific gem most Australians haven't explored yet - here's how to do it

Papeete can get a bad rap. About half of French Polynesia's population lives in and around the capital city that dominates Tahiti - the largest island of the French overseas territory that sprawls over some 5 million square kilometres of the South Pacific. That means it has rush hours, just like most other cities, and plenty of urban hustle and bustle. Not exactly what you might have imagined when planning your idyllic tropical cruise.

Give it a chance (you'll likely be flying in at night from Australia so you will be cooling your heels here anyway). You'll reach Mo'orea and its snaggle-toothed silhouette (visible from Papeete), Bora Bora and French Polynesia's other postcard-perfect islands and atolls soon enough. Inhale the heady fragrance of the tiare (Tahitian gardenia) garland you were likely welcomed with, vow not to waste all of your pre-boarding hours lazing in a hotel bed and get set to pound the rues and avenues to discover Papeete's endearing side.

If there's one unmissable attraction, it's the city's extraordinary collection of compelling large-scale street art. After noting down the artworks' locations, venture away from the waterfront into the backstreets - where chickens are literally crossing the roads - to find these gems, the result of a street-art festival that ran from 2014-18. One of the most beloved artworks is The Vahine in a Red Tifaifai - a collaborative work from French artist Seth and local artist HTJ on Rue Edouard Ahnne (not far from the yellow Notre Dame Cathedral where a full-sized carved Madonna and Child features a breadfruit-clutching baby). The mural, which has featured on a postage stamp, shows a Tahitian girl curled up asleep on a red and white patterned quilt.

Near La Mennais College is a more subtle artwork - Portuguese artist Vhils's monochromatic portrait of a girl was created not with paint but by jackhammering into a wall. On Avenue du General de Gaulle, look for French artist Vinie's cartoon-like depiction of a Tahitian woman with flowers studding her exuberantly bouffant hair.

Avenue Pouvanaa a Oopa - one of Papeete's stateliest thoroughfares - is also home to the Presidential Palace. Meander past ornamental street lamps and shady century-old rain trees to see the two-storey residence with a controversial history (ordered by former five-time president Gaston Flosse and inaugurated in 2000, the building's cost soared to almost $US60 million). Nearby is another stunning mural - unfurling along a rough stone wall, it honours Polynesian involvement in the resolution of both world wars.

Smart cruisers will take advantage of the port's convenient location in the downtown area. Check in and board your ship, ditch your luggage and enjoy a quick respite from the humidity, then head back down the gangplank to make the most of those final hours before sail-away (note your final embarkation time, s'il vous plait, as a cruise ship waits for nobody). Nearby is one of Papeete's historic landmarks - the distinctive open-air, double-storey municipal market that occupies an entire block.

About half a million people annually head to the market found within the red-painted metal framework. This spot has hosted vendors since 1848, with the current building design dating from 1928. Pull some Pacific francs from the ATM to snap up monoi (coconut oil infused with tiare), colourful pareos (sarongs), beach hats, shell jewellery and handwoven baskets. More formal stores, selling crafts and cultured pearls, as well as sit-down eateries can be found on the upper level. You can also graze the snacks: think guava pies, lemon cakes, chocolate eclairs and baguettes filled with ham and gruyere. If you're visiting on a Sunday, head inside at the crack of dawn along with residents who are flocking to buy ingredients such as fresh fish and sweet roast pork for their traditional Sunday brunch. Want a local's perspective on the market? Marama Tours (maramatours.com) can guide you through the stalls (and some street-art sites) over three to four hours, offering tastings and insights into the three cuisines - Tahitian, French and Chinese - that have shaped the city's gastronomic offerings.

Last November a new eatery - inspired by New York's breweries - opened between the cruise terminal and the market. Tribeca Tahiti (tribecatahiti.com) slings American-style breakfasts from 6am, cheeseburgers, pizzas, beer and inventive mocktails (pineapple coconut spritzer, anyone?). It's located beneath Botanica (botanicatahiti.com), well known for Italian fare.

Hit Papeete's waterfront Pa'ofa'i Gardens. Its five hectares include palm-shaded walkways, ornamental gardens, a restaurant-bar with overwater seating and a giant timber twin-hull canoe - along with views across Nanuu Bay to neighbouring Mo'orea. Head inland to the French Polynesia Assembly and, behind the civic structure, you'll discover what feels like a secret oasis. This peaceful, tucked-away garden, redesigned in 2013 and renamed Tarahoi i Vaiete, includes a fish-filled freshwater pool where Queen Pomare IV once bathed and a fascinating botanical trail that includes Tahitian chestnuts, island walnut and beach gardenia.

The writer was a guest of NCL