This hotel has a library bar and guitars you can take to your room.


Where: 25-29 Eyre Street Hill, London
How much: From about $200 per night for a double room
Explore more: ruby-hotels.com
Lavish and mega expensive hotels have been all the rage in England's capital since the pandemic, but thankfully you can also find appealing newcomers that are kinder on the wallet. Driven by its philosophy of "lean luxury", German brand Ruby has opened three branches in the city, with its latest named after Estella, a character in Great Expectations by Charles Dickens, who used to live locally.
It's hidden down a quiet, sloping lane where Farringdon meets Clerkenwell, two storied enclaves on the northern fringes of London's historic core, where you'll see more office workers, tradesmen and creatives than tourists. The nearest Tube stops from the hotel are 10-15 minutes away on foot. Walk a bit further and you'll reach St Paul's Cathedral and the River Thames. Double-decker buses heading to the West End regularly rumble along Clerkenwell Road, a stone's throw from Ruby Stella. Coming from Heathrow Airport? Direct Elizabeth Line trains will have you at Farringdon station in 40 minutes.

Bookish themes filter through Ruby Stella, most obviously in the vibrant, high-ceilinged and creatively laid-out ground floor, which acts as reception, lounge, 24-hour bar and breakfast spot. The decor also draws on the hotel's surroundings, formerly a hive of print-works and foundries. Besides an array of colourful cosy chairs, banquettes and high stools, furnishings include an antique printing press, a Remington typewriter and shelves of vintage novels, including Dickens' Oliver Twist and Bleak House.

There are 153 guest rooms, ranging from 11 to 26 square metres, with windowless Nest options if you're not fussed by daylight. Otherwise, Cosy and Lovely category rooms come with a (not especially amazing) view, either of the street or the building's secluded courtyard terrace. Despite the "lean" aura, you can expect mod-cons and more, such as a pocket-sprung mattress, snug linens, a casting TV, and an ensuite with rainfall shower. Other nice touches include varnished wood and leather trimmings, items like feather quills and printing paraphernalia above the beds, plus Marshall Bluetooth speakers and amps (electric guitars can be hired from reception). Unusually for a hotel in England, there's no in-room kettle. But every floor has a "galley", with filtered hot and cold water, free tea bags, instant coffee and takeaway cups.

"Bottomless" barista-made coffee is a perk of the hotel's breakfast, where a well-stocked continental buffet has a variety of fruits, cereals, yoghurts, pastries, breads, cheeses and charcuterie. It's decent value at about $35 (there are cafes close by if you'd prefer a full English). At other times of the day, the hotel serves Italian-inspired snacks, including pizzas.
Music pulses through the bar, with live bands or DJs some evenings. You'll find alternative entertainment, food and drink in the neighbourhood, including gastropubs and tequila joints that pull in the after-work crowd, plus Indian, Turkish and Vietnamese eateries. On weekdays (10am-3pm), street food stalls sprinkle Leather Lane, a centuries-old market strip just up from the hotel.
Stepping out of Ruby Stella's door and wandering the streets Dickens roamed is a thrill. You can stroll towards Bloomsbury, where the author's former Georgian terraced townhouse displays his writing desk and manuscripts.
The writer was a guest of the hotel







