This small-ship Fijian cruise unlocks hidden islands most travellers miss

Blue Lagoon Cruises has been offering small-ship voyages around the Yasawa Islands for more than 75 years. Yasawa Princess II was launched in 2009 and previously sailed in New Zealand under a different name. The 44-passenger catamaran joined Blue Lagoon in April after an extensive refurbishment and has an all-Fijian crew. However, the best thing about a cruise on Yasawa Princess II isn't necessarily the ship itself, but the unprecedented access it offers to the beautiful Yasawa Islands. The onboard experience is comfortable and low-key, and appeals to active, mature cruisers who value socialising and cultural encounters over lavish facilities. Most passengers are Australian, with a handful of guests hailing from New Zealand and Europe. Multiple couples on our cruise had sailed with Blue Lagoon Cruises on their honeymoon up to 40 years earlier and had returned to celebrate their anniversaries.

Yasawa Princess II has 22 cabins spread across two decks. Each one is the same size, so there's no need to agonise over which category offers the most space. There are no cabins with a balcony, but large windows offer constant views of Fiji's spectacular scenery. The two entry-level Hibiscus cabins offer the best value, with the only difference being a slightly smaller picture window. The cabins are functional rather than fancy, but you probably won't spend much time in them anyway. Honeymooners beware: even the smallest noise can be heard in adjoining rooms. Light sleepers may prefer to avoid the cabins at the rear of the ship, especially those on the lowest deck, as these experience the most engine noise. Earplugs are provided for anyone who has trouble sleeping (whatever the reason).

Cabins feature a colour palette of white, blue and sand that mirrors the fluffy clouds, ocean and beaches outside the window. Each one has the same layout and thoughtful inclusions, from bathrobes and impressively fast Wi-Fi to charging ports and individually controlled air-conditioning. Our favourite was the daily bag of laundry, which usually returned to our cabin before we did after the ship's afternoon excursion.

Dining is refreshingly uncomplicated. There is one relaxed restaurant with an adjoining bar, and a handful of memorable meals served beneath Fiji's open skies. Dishes are filling rather than fancy, with a focus on authentic Fijian flavours and sharing good food with new friends.

Breakfast and lunch are buffets, while dinner ranges from Indian feasts served on the top deck to the more formal Captain's Dinner, the only table-service meal during the voyage and the only one where beer and wine are included. During dinner, long communal tables encourage conversation, making this ship a particularly good fit for sociable travellers.

The culinary highlight is the traditional Fijian lovo, where chicken, pork, lamb, reef fish and traditional vegetables such as taro and yams are slow-cooked in an underground oven before being unearthed beachside. It's as much a cultural experience as a meal, with smoky flavours enjoyed at beachside tables with sand between your toes. Back on board, expect plenty of tropical fruit, fresh seafood and local favourites such as kokoda, Fiji's take on ceviche, made with citrus-marinated raw fish and coconut cream. Desserts are either traditional Fijian dishes like vakalolo, which combines boiled pumpkin with coconut milk, or classics like chocolate mousse or apple pie.

The entertainment reflects the ship's low-key vibe. Socialising during the cocktail hour, followed by a meal and activities like trivia or karaoke are the extent of what's on offer. Many passengers skip the after-dinner entertainment in favour of retiring early in preparation for the next day's adventures. Many passengers skip the after-dinner entertainment in favour of retiring early in preparation for the following day's adventures.

When you're spending each day hopping between remote islands, snorkelling coral reefs, swimming with manta rays, kayaking around lagoons, and heading ashore to experience Fiji's cultural traditions, it's hard to choose just one or two must-dos.

That said, the overnight stay at Nanuya Island is a standout. Here, an intimate kava ceremony is followed by the lovo dinner and a meke show. Performers from a nearby village arrive wearing multiple salusalu (floral garlands), drape the sweet-smelling necklaces over passengers' heads, and welcome everyone to the Yasawa Islands. After an evening of spirited singing and dancing (and some audience participation for people like me who foolishly sit near the front), passengers catch the tender back to the ship, a short ride as the Princess is so close to shore that it's tethered to a coconut tree.

In an era when many cruise lines rely on technology to personalise the guest experience, Yasawa Princess II achieves it the old-fashioned way. With just 44 guests looked after by an all-Fijian crew of 22, the service experience is warm, personal and feels heartfelt rather than overly polished or scripted. Crew members quickly learn everyone's name and turn everyday interactions into meaningful moments, with plenty of time for a chat and a laugh.

Whenever older guests who were unsteady on their feet approached the buffet, a crew member appeared by their side with a smile and carried their plate to the table. The same thoughtfulness was evident during shore excursions, where staff patiently offered a steady hand while boarding tenders or navigating uneven beaches. There was no fuss or fanfare, just genuine kindness and care.

The writer was a guest of Blue Lagoon Cruises