From 'murder capital' to one of the safest: why this country is so hot right now

It's a remarkable turnaround by nearly every measurable crime metric: El Salvador, once known as the "murder capital of the world", has transformed from one of the most dangerous countries in Latin America to one of the safest. Bordered by Guatemala and Honduras, it's the smallest nation in Central America, a land of volcanoes, mouthwatering pupusas and world-class surf breaks. After hearing many glowing reports of laidback beach towns, new hotels, low prices and the warmest welcome, I hop on a flight from New York City to the capital, San Salvador, to see for myself. The nonstop flight takes five hours and costs just a few hundred dollars.

The most stressful part of landing in an unfamiliar country can be haggling with local taxi drivers. There's always the worry that you're being ripped off or climbing into the back seat of an unauthorised ride. I'm not out here trying to get rescued from kidnappers by Liam Neeson. No such hassles at El Salvador International: Uber drivers can pull up right out front and fares are set in the app. I pay $US30 ($42) for the 45-minute drive to my downtown hotel.

The young driver, whose English skills are way better than my very basic Spanish, is eager to chat and speaks proudly of the improvements his homeland has undergone in the past decade.

In 2015, El Salvador was one of the most violent countries in the world. President Nayib Bukele took office in 2019 on the strength of a campaign that promised to crack down on gang crime, improve safety and welcome international visitors back. Mass arrests of suspected gang members in 2022 were not without criticism, but did lead to a drastic drop in homicides: down 70 per cent in 2023 alone. A destination once relegated to the "adventurous only" category is now safely open for exploration. An influx of new boutique hotels, specialty coffee shops, yoga retreats and world-class restaurants are catering to a discerning global crowd.

We stop for fresh pupusas, the thick, griddle-sizzled corn tortillas that ooze with cheese, refried bean and pork fillings. The national dish of El Salvador, they're cheap as chips and twice as tasty. The trip is off to a great start.

El Salvador's compact size, roughly a third the size of Tasmania, makes it uniquely rewarding for travellers who want to experience wildly different landscapes in a single week. If you don't have seven days, tough choices will need to be made: volcanoes and national parks or the scenic mountain routes of the western part of the country? The cobblestone streets of artist-favourite Suchitoto or the sweeping panoramas of Lake Coatepeque?

I opt for a few days in the historic downtown centre of San Salvador, and three days by the beach on the Surf City Coast (La Libertad). When the holiday comes to an end, I feel that I would have been happy to stay another week or two.

The city streets are very walkable and are dotted with intriguing sites and distractions, including the National Palace, Metropolitan Cathedral and handicrafts shops. I never thought I'd be truly wowed by a library, but I am by BINAES, the national library. The state-of-the-art cultural hub is open 24/7 and offers free activities that include virtual reality gaming zones, robotics, 3D printers and a flight simulator. The hotel I've booked, City Centro by Marriott San Salvador, is lovely and is as central as they come.

Stretching along the Pacific, the Surf City coastline is a siren call for surfers and wave-riders. While you won't get the white sands and turquoise water found in other parts of Central America, the dramatic, volcanic sand beaches are stunning.

Most visitors make tracks for Playa El Tunco, the busy social hub with its "swim all day, party all night" vibe. Popular with younger travellers and backpackers, its streets are lined with surf schools, cafes, restaurants and souvenir shops. I visit one day for lunch and a beach massage, but I base myself at nearby Playa El Zonte, a slower-paced, more relaxing spot.

The best hotel on the beach there is Palo Verde Sustainable Hotel, an eco-conscious boutique property with oceanfront infinity pools, excellent food and cocktails, and spacious rooms. I'd go back in a heartbeat.

El Salvador is an increasingly rewarding destination for independent and solo travellers, provided you keep a few practical tips in mind. Learn a few basic words of Spanish, or have Google Translate at the ready. I bought an eSIM from provider Airalo before I landed, so that I could stay connected at all times.

While local buses are generally safe, they can be confusing and crowded. I relied on Uber for an easy, affordable and secure way to get around.

The usual advice about not flashing expensive jewellery or wads of cash applies. The US dollar is the legal currency: take notes in small denominations if you can.

If you prefer the camaraderie, security and ease of an organised trip, El Salvador has seen a surge in reputable tour operators. Both G Adventures and Intrepid Travel offer Central American multi-country itineraries that feature El Salvador. These tours typically focus on hiking volcanoes, learning about coffee production, beach breaks and exploring historical sites with local guides. A local operator, Tunco Life, offers day trips, surf lessons, volcano hikes and authentic cultural experiences.

While El Salvador is vastly safer than it was a decade ago, smart travel precautions still apply. Steer clear of peripheral neighbourhoods in the San Salvador downtown area, and stick to busy, well-frequented areas, especially after dark. Beach towns along the coast are generally safe and walkable, but avoid isolated, unlit stretches at night. Overland border crossings should be completed well before nightfall.

I checked the Smartraveller website before booking my trip: it recommends a high degree of caution - the advice level also applied to countries such as the UK, France and Indonesia. I'm an alert, cautious traveller who never takes unnecessary risks and pays careful attention to my instincts. There was not a moment during my trip when I felt unsafe. Quite the opposite, I felt welcomed and looked out for by countless Salvadorans, incredibly resilient people who are meeting the new dawn with admirable optimism and open hearts.

The writer travelled at her own expense