This stunning cruise to Tahiti turned into something even more alluring

A cruise to Tahiti turned into something even more alluring when nature played up.

As I unpack in my cabin on board Windstar's Star Breeze, the new snorkelling mask and flippers I purchased take pride of place. I can almost feel on my skin the tingly salt water of the azure lagoons I will laze in. I can picture the velvety sting rays that I will fraternise with, and think about the fire dance we will see on an idyllic motu.

I would do none of those things. The mask is still pristine in its packet and flippers have been left unflapped. Mother Nature had other plans.

The 11-day itinerary was Star Breeze's first sailing in her new home base, Tahiti, French Polynesia. Even just reading the destinations brought forth the swirling scents of frangipani, tiare and vanilla ... Fakarava, Rangiroa, Taha'a, Raiatea, Bora Bora, Huahine and Moorea.

I opt to stay on land at Fakarava, doing an e-bike tour of the island. We cycle past black pearl boutiques, racks used to dry copra - the island's biggest export - and its lighthouse, before heading back to the ship where I swim off the Marina, a cleverly designed watersports platform giving direct access to the turquoise lagoon. You can take out a kayak or SUP, jump on the floating trampoline, sit on the mats or just swim.

With the salt barely dry on my skin, the captain, Simon Terry, lets us know that a brewing storm may interfere with our schedule. Later, he breaks the news that a cyclone has indeed formed in our path, but that we are already en route to a new destination ... the most remote archipelago in the world - the Marquesas.

Locals call it Fenua Enata, the Land of Men, and when we arrive in the harbour of Nuku Hiva, welcomed by the giant Tiki Tuhiva sculpture on the headland, it is obvious we are in for a magical experience. The island is covered in thick forest, with mist teasing around the lofty peaks and as if conjured just for us, a rainbow appears, curving down to what is undoubtedly a pot of gold.

Nuku Hiva is one of six inhabited islands and the incredible Windstar crew have done the impossible, attaining permission for Star Breeze to visit, and working with locals to organise tours of the island in a little over a day. We learn that Herman Melville, author of Moby Dick, visited the island in the 1840s, and it was the setting for his first novel, Typee: A Peep at Polynesian Life (1846).

After visiting the spectacular Notre Dame Cathedral with its eclectic mix of Catholic and Polynesian traditions, we join a conga line of vehicles and journey up a ridge stopping to take in the flower-infused views back to the ship before dropping into the Taipivai Valley. We wind past thickets of ferns, coconut palms, breadfruit trees, mangos, limes and noni trees, passing grazing wild horses, goats and chickens.

That evening, we are treated to a cultural show and witness the island's Haka Manu - Bird Dance. It is a brilliant introduction to the thriving ancestral culture of Fenua Enata.

Our visit to Fatu Hiva, with its mountainous spine giving total Jurassic Park vibes, comes to nought as nature is not playing nice, so it's on to Hiva Oa. It's best known as the final resting place of Paul Gauguin and Belgian crooner Jacques Brel, and we visit their graves and respective museums, swim at a volcanic-black-sand beach, and tour the Upeke archeological site. Our guide, Brian, tells us about the ceremonies that took place here and shows us an ancient tiki, carved a thousand years ago, and a sacred banyan tree. Only one-seventh of this site has been cleared, with nature not too keen on giving up the secrets of what lies beneath. Brian explains that life here hasn't really changed. He killed his first pig at age six and his children also know how to hunt, fish and gather.

Traditions are also on show when we are treated to a Marquesan-style wedding that evening. The warriors are fearsome and the women mesmerising as they dance and sing to bless this lucky couple. I love that there are children taking part and it matters not a bit if they get it wrong.

Star Breeze is an all-suite ship and my cabin spacious, with plenty of storage, a lounge area, desk and small verandah. The ship has an excellent spa, a decent gym, a lovely pool area with hot tub and a separate hot tub on the bow perfect for a sunset soak. There are four restaurants - the Veranda (which transforms into Candles at night), Cuadro 44, Amphora and the Star Grill - with the Yacht Club the place for sunrise flat whites and daytime hang outs. Captain Terry was not joking when he introduced the food and beverage manager as the person in charge of the "waist expansion program", as the food is incredible. As part of Windstar's determination to immerse guests in all things French Polynesia, we get to sample local dishes, and enjoy mingling with and learning from the local ambassadors - the first employed by a cruise line - on board.

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When we disembark in Papeete, I am not sorry that my dreams of frolicking in pristine lagoons were literally blown away. The cultural wonders of Fenua Enata and the delightful Windstar experience more than made up for it.

I whisper a heartfelt muruuru - thank you - as I farewell the crew, but I know it won't be my last Windstar moment.

Where am I going next? It is quite literally, a mystery.

THE SHIP: Windstar Cruises' Star Breeze

THE SIZE: 159 metres, 156 suites, 312 passengers

GOOD TO KNOW: As a result of what turned out to be a mystery cruise, Windstar has planned another one, in and out of Athens in April 2025. Guests will find out where they are going the day before.

GET ON BOARD: Star Breeze is based in French Polynesia and does have itineraries that take in the Marquesas: the 13-night Tahitian Treasures and Magnificent Marquesas departs June 19, 2025, from $US7199 ($10,700) per person.

EXPLORE MORE: windstarcruises.com

The writer was a guest of Windstar Cruises.

Pictures: Helen Hayes, supplied.