Steep streets and giant seabirds: This stopover city's full of surprises

Dunedin is full of reasons to stay awhile.

The South Island port city of Dunedin's not given to hyperbole, so its attributes and attractions - from the perfectly preserved Edwardian and Victorian architecture of the city centre to the natural beauty and prolific wildlife of its peninsula - may come as a surprise to the first-time visitor. If you're heading off for a New Zealand fiords or Antarctic cruise, or just calling in en route, factor in time to check out these top experiences for yourself.

Stories and scandals (and it's said a ghost or two) inhabit New Zealand's only castle. Built in the heyday of the 1800s gold rush, Larnarch Castle was sold on the suicide of twice-widowed, thrice-married owner William Larnarch in 1906, becoming an asylum, then a soldiers' barracks in World War II. It fell into disrepair until restored in 1967 by the Barker family. Take a tour of the many elegant rooms, climb the narrow corkscrew stone staircase to the roof for the exquisite bay view and explore the lush gardens, including a photogenic pergola tunnel draped in yellow laburnum. larnachcastle.co.nz

A wildlife rather than a musical experience, OPERA (Otago Peninsula Eco Restoration Alliance) is a conservation organisation with a private reserve and rehabilitation facilities, home to a rare species - the "hoiho", or yellow-eyed penguin. A tour begins with a backgrounder on the wildlife and flora of this 60-hectare reserve, a former sheep farm rewilded with native forest trees. It then leads you across the system of tracks skirting the beach dunes where, if you don't spot the elusive hoiho, you'll almost certainly see little penguins nesting in the scrub. theopera.co.nz

One of the country's most photographed buildings, Dunedin Railway Station has a surreal, film-set quality. Built in 1906 in the Flemish Renaissance style, of local limestone and black basalt, it's equally grand inside, with a ticket hall featuring an intricate 7000-tile mosaic floor and a frieze of Royal Doulton porcelain. While it still caters for the Dunedin Railways tourist trains, the upper floor is home to the New Zealand Sports Hall of Fame and the Otago Art Society.

Built around a volcanic crater, Dunedin's natural harbour is punctuated by a series of beautiful bays. A recently completed cycle path forms a loop, known as the Otago Vine. It's about 32 kilometres in total, or about a three-hour ride (or slightly less with an electric bike) but you'll want to stop at the many panoramic viewpoints along the way. You can also choose to make a day of it, with cafe or restaurant lunch stops, as well as spending some time in the historic village of Port Chalmers, with its impressive cathedral and interesting seafaring history. You can hire an ebike in either Dunedin or Port Chalmers. goatloop.nz

The story goes that Dunedin's street planners, who laid out the city in a grid, were based in London, unfamiliar with any anomalies to the terrain. Hence, the unintentional steepness of Baldwin Street, with a 37 per cent grade up to Signal Hill. Due to its steepness, the top section of the street is surfaced in concrete, rather than bitumen, which on hot days, could potentially soften and slide off. A walk up Baldwin looks intimidating, but there is a chair halfway for a rest. So get your heart thumping and check out the residents' quirky, angled homes.

Otago Farmers Markets, a true farmers' market, where the people who make or grow the food sell the food, has been voted New Zealand's favourite, a fixture of the city for more than 20 years. It's set beside the historic train station and held every Saturday morning from a civilised 8am, and there's a relaxed, local vibe, with about 60 stalls selling everything from home-baked pies to artisan cheese, fruit, flowers, fish, meat, wine and more. Go hungry and breakfast on a filled bagel, bacon buttie, a lemon-doused French crepe or a buttery croissant. otagofarmersmarket.org.nz

Toitu Otago Settlers Museum delivers an account of the lives of brave new settlers who came from Scotland to the "New Edinburgh" at the end of the world, as well as more recent arrivals. It's far from a dry history lesson; the museum takes a contemporary, hands-on approach with 14 themed galleries of interactive displays of everything from the original mud-daub homes to wedding attire through the ages and a virtual reality exhibition. Entry is free. toituosm.com

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You don't have to be a bird lover to appreciate a viewing of the earth's largest seabird. November heralds the high season, as the royal albatross arrive to nest at Taiaroa headland, their eggs hatching 80 days later and the young maturing for eight months before taking off to sea. They usually breed only on remote islands and this is the world's only mainland breeding colony. The 60-minute tour of the Royal Albatross Centre starts with an educational introduction, before a walk up to the observatory for viewing - if you're lucky you'll see the adorable fluff balls that are the new hatchlings. albatross.org.nz

Dunedin is quietly carving itself a reputation for good food (and drink). Spirits lovers might want to head for one of the city's distilleries, like Dunedin Craft Brewers, which makes vodka and gin from discarded bread and bakery goods. St Clair's Beach is home to the award-winning Titi, where your six-course set menu might include high country salmon and local ostrich, and the glass walls give a cinematic view over the action of the surf beach, while in the city centre, the highly regarded Moiety, has an impressive chef's-whim seasonal menu. dunedinnz.com/visit/eat-and-drink

Getting there: Cruise liners with Dunedin as port of call include: Pontant's Le Laperouse, Royal Carribean's Ovation of the Seas, Crystal Cruise's Symphony and more. Air New Zealand flies to Dunedin via Auckland or Christchurch.

Staying there: Distinction Dunedin is a well-placed city-centre hotel in what was once the city's post-office. Rooms start at about NZ$289 ($266) for bed and breakfast. distinctionhotelsdunedin.co.nz

Explore more: dunedinnz.com

The writer was a guest of Enterprise Dunedin.