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When silence falls: An unexpected escape in Bali that will soothe your soul

Tourists avoid this Balinese festival, but why they should stay.

The Ogoh-Ogoh parade.
The Ogoh-Ogoh parade.
Kate Cox
Updated June 24, 2025, first published October 11, 2024

Tourists go out of their way to avoid this 24-hour Hindu festival. But here's why you should stay.

It's the storm before the calm.

We are running under the lush foliage, hot Balinese rain belting down all over us.

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We are in a hurry because we want to make the Ogoh-Ogoh parade, which we can already hear - loudly - in the distance.

The cacophony of noise and colour and light is part of Pengrupukan Day (or Tawur Kesanga) in the lead-up to Nyepi, the Balinese Day of Silence.

This most important, sacred and holy day of the year takes place every year in March on the day after the new moon. The 24-hour-long Hindu celebration marks a new year according to the Saka calendar and symbolises a period of self-reflection for all residents of Bali, many of whom will spend the day practising meditation, prayer and wellness.

The four principles - Amati Geni (no fire or light), Amati Karya (no working), Amati Lelungan (no travelling), and Amati Lelanguan (no entertainment) - ensure that Balinese locals do not have friends over, watch television or use their mobile phones or laptops. No Zoom or Google.

The Ogoh-Ogoh parade.
The Ogoh-Ogoh parade.

There is no fire and no lights: the island is dark and the usually bustling Bali streets and beaches are unearthly deserted, with no cars, motorbikes or people.

There is no work, except for the skeleton staff at the resorts. From 6am until 6am the following day, hotel guests are not allowed to use electricity, make noise - or leave. It's the real deal: there is no travelling and no flights - even the airport is closed.

The usually bustling Bali streets and beaches are unearthly deserted.

Traditionally, potential tourists to Bali - an island maybe best known for hedonistic group happiness - have condemned Nyepi as a time to avoid. But as tourism trends change and travellers seek immersive cultural experiences and out of the ordinary offerings, its appeal is growing. I did hear stories of grumpy guests who had not factored in the forced off button to their travel plans - but the magical experience is well worth travelling for.

We arrived at Ayana Villas Bali - a beautiful, roaming resort set on the cliffs in Jimbaran - ahead of Nyepi and just in time for the exhilarating holiday beginning of that noisy parade, with music and dance, the crashing of tin cans and bamboo drums and, most dramatically, giant effigies of mythical creatures prancing through the streets with the noisy goal of awakening disruptive energies and of casting away evil spirits. The biggest monsters, made by the locals over more than a month, are burned afterwards, in order to signify renewal.

And then, the eerie and ethereal silence.

Ayana's SAKA museum.
Ayana's SAKA museum.

When the sun rose on Nyepi, the resort was wrapped in quiet. My best girlfriend and I relished the forced quiet time by soaking in our private outdoor pool, setting goals and eating and drinking yummy delights. With TV and Wi-Fi shut off, there was no distraction of technology or the outside world and time slowed.

In the lead-up, Ayana had prepared special activities, such as yoga and meditation sessions as well as - our favourite - water massage in the huge Thalassotherapy pool.

It was a chance to disconnect, not just from devices but from the constant rush of everyday life.

That night, we stargazed. Without any light pollution, the night sky came alive. The resort had arranged a simple yet beautiful setup on the lawn, where guests could lay back and take in the cosmic spectacle - a humbling reminder of the vastness of the universe and the smallness of our individual worries.

The main swimming pool at Ayana during Nyepi.
The main swimming pool at Ayana during Nyepi.

SAKA Museum opened this year at Ayana, exhibiting impressive Ogoh-Ogoh sculptures from master Balinese artists steeped in Nyepi history and exploring all of the traditions of the Day of Silence and the wonderful principle of Tri Hita Karana (the Balinese philosophy for living: harmony with religion, people and nature). There's also the Palelintangan, or Balinese star calendar, on display, on which you can understand your personal traits by looking up the day of your birth. (Apparently, according to the lovely giggling museum staffer, my numbers say I am loud and make my bosses happy.)

Thalassotherapy at Ayana Spa.
Thalassotherapy at Ayana Spa.

While the idea of not being able to leave the resort or use modern conveniences might seem daunting to some, Nyepi at Ayana was far from restrictive. The resort's commitment to honouring the spiritual importance of the day while still offering guests a luxurious experience meant the day felt like a rare gift - a chance to reflect, reconnect with oneself and experience the peace that comes with stillness.

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The staff were genuinely keen to spread the message of a transformative journey for renewal that could apply to the world. "There is beauty in silence, the best music is silence," said one museum worker as we browsed the exhibitions.

Here, I also got chatting to a Melbourne couple - Carmella and John - who were surprised their holiday had landed with a significant but silent festival in the middle of it but were embracing it by learning about it.

SAKA Museum at Ayana in the lead-up to Nyepi 2024.
SAKA Museum at Ayana in the lead-up to Nyepi 2024.

As Nyepi ended and the island slowly came back to life, we felt a deep sense of renewal.

Nyepi at Ayana was not just a day of silence, but a journey into the island of the God's rich cultural and spiritual heritage, made all the more special by the stunning surroundings.

Celebrating Nyepi was a travel experience unlike any other - one I was to carry with me long after I returned home.

An Ayana room.
An Ayana room.

TRIP NOTES

Getting there: Qantas, Jetstar, Virgin, Batik Air and Garuda Indonesia fly to Bali from Australia's capital cities.

Getting around: Taxi services, Gojek and private drivers can be booked throughout Bali. Ayana has a train and 24-hour butler service to buggy you through the large resort with a range of accommodations, restaurants and pools.

Staying there: Ayana Villas start at $1350 per night including taxes and fees.

Explore more: ayana.com; sakamuseum.org

The writer was a guest of Ayana.

Kate Cox
Words byKate Cox
Kate is head of travel for ACM. She loves discovering new places and has visited all seven continents, including a year-long lap of Australia with her young family.

My all-time favourite destination is ... Sri Lanka. It was two decades ago, but I still haven’t forgotten the smells, sights, sounds and tastes, plus the wonderful people, of that diverse country. Closer to home, the coastal town of Yamba never fails to please.

Next on my bucket list is …The Galapagos or Greenland - both evocative countries that will expand the mind!

My top travel tip is … Get lost! Take the unexpected path - you never know what you’ll find.