I went to Africa to find the Big Five, but discovered a different kind of hero

I've watched countless movies about Africa, and I've always fancied Robert Redford's classic safari slouch hat in Out of Africa and the idea of adventures under vast tangerine skies. But my safari is about golden silence; discovering a crash of hippopotamuses frolicking in a lake at sunset; the buzz of sleeping under heaving electrical storms; and gratitude for the devoted caretakers of animals that are still shockingly under threat.

I arrive at Kruger National Park, which celebrates 100 years as a national park this year, after a short 30-minute flight from Johannesburg to the Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport. We are swiftly ushered to our safari camp's open-air game viewing truck and spirited away for a mammoth first day of searching for the Big Five - the lion, leopard, elephant, rhinoceros and African buffalo. Our guide tells us to grab only what we need for the next few hours so I hurriedly stuff some insect repellent into my pockets and, bumpity, bumpity, off we go.

We pass through several small towns where local vendors ply their trade, whizzing past hairdressers, supermarkets and mechanics. The steady procession of safari trucks is something the locals are used to and indeed many work in Kruger or in the tourist industry.

It's also generally safe to stop in these towns although your guide will advise you on the best places.

We enter the park about 45 minutes later through the main Paul Kruger Gate. The park is massive with some roads stretching as far east as Mozambique and to Zimbabwe in the north. Indeed, at 19,623 square kilometres, it's so big that animals migrate across the vast plains seeking new climates and vegetation. The trucks navigate sealed and unsealed roads and you are at times bounced like a ball from side to side. Your guide is in constant communication with others in the park who help in plotting routes to the latest sightings so you're always chasing one lead or another, and making diabolical turns on steep roads.

We stay at Ndhula Luxury Tented Lodge on our first night. It's in a fenced area of the park although animals come and go at will. For dinner we are treated to a South African braai or barbecue, local wine and beer, and a traditional milk tart for dessert. Ndhula has a pool and the resort is merged into the landscape for quiet reflection. There is netting, powerpoints and an indoor shower, and the bedding is quite plush. That first night is a real how-do-you-do, sleeping under a cracking electrical storm. The sultry night gives way to a delightful morning for the early risers who either walk around the camp to spy giraffes through the foliage or have a dip in the pool before brekkie.

We also spend two nights at Buffalo Rock lodge which is a wholly unfenced camp with an armed guard for any emergencies. Buffalo Rock is spartan and more about roughing it. Going to your room at night feels dicey at first as we all have to be escorted by an armed guard, but that is really out of an abundance of caution. The cabins also have air horns for emergencies, but don't let that scare you. As you drift off to sleep in an unaccustomed stillness, you can hear a cacophony of nocturnal noises off the Bushveldt. This is what I imagined a safari camp to be - rugged, secluded and a little chancy.

We were treated to a 10-hour tour of the Panorama Route. The Panorama Route is a stunning 160-kilometre drive in the Mpumalanga province. We whizzed past acres of almond trees, with ears slightly popping as we raced towards the mountains for the views of the lowveld. We hiked on Blyde River Canyon across deep ravines. We sat for stunning pictures at the Three Rondavels with its ancient rocks shaped like beehive huts.

God's Window was a highlight with its heavenly views that reach into eternity across perfectly blue skies, so expansive that photos fail to frame what you experience. You're 1000 metres above sea level. It was also the setting for the latest Mission Impossible movie where two biplanes danced in thrilling death throes.

God's Window also ranks as one of the best selfie spots on the Panorama Tour judging by the precariously contorted tourists oh-so close to the edge.

The safari drivers also provide food for the hours-long game drives and a local alcoholic Amarula drink in a tranquil spot at sunset - the sundowner - is something I get used to quite quickly. The guides, devoted conservationists, are extremely knowledgeable and often stop to point out small animals and provide interesting context. We are told the lions and other animals ignore the open-air trucks because they're used to them and also perceive them as apex predators. That illusion is only shattered if you wave your hands over the side and your guide will let you know if you do.

We have a game drive scheduled for every morning and several evening drives as well. And I must admit my bottom gets a little sore from all of the driving (about four to six hours a day) and I often sheepishly sit on a soft jumper or windbreaker to cushion the bumps. On early morning safaris, the hyena emerge from their burrows and stretch like we do each day; on evening safaris, the hippos play in rivers as the sun sets. These are some of the most magical moments, where I am on the edge of a river as the hippo cast a watchful eye over the bank. Fretting at first because of the closeness of the man-killing beasts, I just lean into my Amarula and the golden silence where both human and animal get to whet their whistle.

I do see all the Big Five, although the sighting of two African lions, perhaps brothers according to our guide, is fleeting, and the rhinoceros we spot are a long way off. Estimates suggest Kruger is home to only about 2000 lions. Sadly, their population is in decline partly because of resource-limited habitats and human impact. Poachers still target lions and leopards for their skins, teeth and bones, and elephants for their tusks. The guides carry weapons and park rangers patrol the park but given the size of Kruger it is a dangerous job to be a guardian of the animals. Many rangers don't disclose their jobs or reveal their names for fear of being targeted by poaching gangs. They too are hunted like the animals they protect, and put their lives at risk to keep them safe.

I peered at a leopard and cub high in a tree and was enthralled by the spotted hyenas and their complex interactions, and the herds of impala and waterbuck. I watched giraffe eat at lofty heights and wander through our camp. But my unforgettable moment was stumbling across a flap-necked chameleon. These tiny reptiles are famous for their colour-changing camouflage and 360-degree vision. Our guide spotted the creature as it craned its neck at what must've seemed like a mountain and I feared exhaling lest it vanish forever.

The writer was a guest of Qantas and TripADeal