I've spent a lifetime looking at Australian stars, but nothing prepared me for this

I thought I had seen stars before. Growing up in the Australian countryside, I have always found peace looking up at the vast and sparkling night sky.

But it was not until I found myself on the west coast of the US, the fierce desert heat loosening its grip on me with every mile we drove from Greater Palm Springs into Joshua Tree National Park, sitting in a camp chair with a cup of hot cocoa, that I gazed at the most awe-inspiring night sky I had ever seen.

I had never noticed "party stars", the ones that twinkle red and blue and green, or how baby stars cluster, gravity holding them together like sisters. I had never seen the mysterious copper "cloud" where stars are born.

Our local Rancho Mirage guide and comedian from Joshua Tree Astronomy Adventures, Caitlin, had set up telescopes so we could watch faraway galaxies, nebulae, even the ringed silhouette of Saturn that has inspired countless children to dream of becoming astronomers.

We sat in captivated silence, staring, or doubled over with laughter as Caitlin graciously answered our burning questions about why we could sometimes see the moon in the daytime, or what scientists really thought about horoscopes. We sipped our marshmallow-sweetened drinks and chewed American candy in our stargazing nests.

The nearby Greater Palm Springs, comprising nine cities in California's Coachella Valley, is famously a hotspot for the stars. I'm talking about the celebrity kind now, from Justin Bieber and Leonardo DiCaprio to old-school Hollywood legends like Marilyn Monroe and Elvis Presley. There are, of course, the piano-shaped pools, the modernist architecture designed by the famous for the infamous, the music festivals, the resorts, golf courses and spas.

But this moment out in nature brought a new perspective to just how much variety the region has to offer, and how relaxation, wellness and exploration can come in many forms. Between Palm Springs, Desert Hot Springs, Cathedral City, Rancho Mirage, Palm Desert, Indian Wells, La Quinta, Indio and Coachella, there is truly something for everyone. Consider me starstruck.

The days in Greater Palm Springs are just as special as the nights. During my autumn visit the days were warm, the sun was bright, the air was dry and calm. We had a little bit of unseasonal storminess, wispy clouds unexpectedly shrouding the base of the mountains on early mornings.

The "desert oasis" Greater Palm Springs I had imagined meant I was surprised each time the towering mountains framing the valley caught my eye. They were almost always within view - whether I was poolside or driving along massive highways - but the best opportunity to experience the glory of the San Jacinto mountains was by hiking.

We met our guide Tim from Sunrise Grounding before daybreak and set out for the South Lykken Trailhead, just outside Palm Springs. We navigated a rocky path uphill as the rugged landscape shifted from being bathed in dark shadow to a purplish dawn glow. Trail runners cheerily shouted "good morning", a walking group of women in visors broke off their chatter to greet us, and we stopped to listen to a great horned owl as we climbed 180 vertical metres. We settled at the main lookout and set our intentions for the day as the sun peeked over Indian Canyons. Tim led us through a guided meditation. Calming the mind was the first step in embracing the true holiday spirit of Greater Palm Springs.

Stuffed into my suitcase as an afterthought next to all the swimwear and linen, my activewear continued to come in handy. While staying at the sprawling JW Marriott in Palm Desert, we did our first pickleball lesson on-site (next to the Chilean flamingo lake, no less). I had heard of the sport and seen Strava posts from friends playing socially, but it was still a little left-of-field back home. Our coach Stacy stocked up with the essentials (sweat towels and iced water just as crucial as the racquets and balls) and we hit the court. It was truly anyone's game but we brought the heat with an hour of cheering, saying 'oops, sorry!' and fist pumping. For the true tennis die-hards though, Indian Wells, home of the 'fifth grand slam', is right nearby.

Greater Palm Springs is an oasis for all. The region is known for its vibrant LGBTQIA+ community. The "drag queen crossing" pedestrian sign outside a strip of bars is unique and fabulous but also symbolic of a much richer story.

We glammed up in our most colourful outfits and buckled in for the Drag N Fly tour. The first-of-its kind attraction was like a love song to Palm Springs. The huge window of the custom pink bus was our cinema screen and the city was the movie as our fun, flirty host filled us in on the history (or her-story?) in between dance and lip-syncing numbers, video vignettes, sassy but informative narration, and the waving of polished nails at the crowds outside. "You are the dancing queen, young and sweet," we sang as we drove along some of the most iconic palm-tree-lined streets in town. It was the perfect Palm Springs evening.

The Greater Palm Springs story isn't all sunshine and rainbows though. The Agua Caliente Cultural Museum painted a vivid and honest picture of the history of the Native American tribe of Cahuilla Indians and how Greater Palm Springs became the cities that lie at the base of the San Jacinto mountain range today. The lessons learned from the captivating exhibits stayed with me throughout the trip.

While the word Coachella was made famous by the music festival, the city of the same name has its identity splashed on walls in impressive mural artworks. I've always thought there is nothing like walking the streets in a new place to get a read on its vibe and energy, but the Coachella Walls project took that to a whole new level. I was particularly struck by a red wall featuring a mirror image of two little girls, painted to an impressive scale, each holding a heart.

Everything in Palm Springs seems designed to warm the body and soul. The way famed architect Albert Frey studied the sun for an entire year to get the orientation of his Frey House II just right. The hot water from springs that is channelled into spas. The sun that beams down most days. Even the air-conditioning and the ice-cold homemade lemonade is like a metaphorical hug when the weather gets too hot. The food and bars in Greater Palm Springs are no different.

The Mexican influence is evident in the spices on the fresh fish tacos I ate on the first night, and in the giant chilli margarita I ordered on the next. I also ate my first smash burger in California. Sat in a maroon booth in a diner straight from a retro Hollywood film, juices from the beef patty and the creamy burger sauce dripped down my fingers, shredded lettuce and melted cheese peeked from the bun, and a plate of fallen filling was easily mopped up with fries already smothered in ketchup and mustard. The endless stream of soda took the place of dessert.

Continuing to fulfil my American food fantasies, I enjoyed "biscuits and gravy" for breakfast more than I expected. In the high desert outside Greater Palm Springs, on the way to Joshua Tree National Park in the Yucca Valley, the cocktails and plates of food were a taste sensation at Mojave Gold, a must-try for a more high-end feast while in the area. I still drool at the thought of the burst of sweetness from their popular bacon-wrapped-dates appetiser.

Who would have thought there really are that many palm trees in Greater Palm Springs? Date palms specifically, in many areas, I learned. The date smoothie from the organic and sustainable Temalpakh Farms (with espresso shots, in my case) proved the perfect morning tea on a warm day.

You know how they say you need a holiday after a holiday to unwind? Not after Greater Palm Springs. Most travellers can probably relate to the guilty feeling of thinking you always need to be doing something in a new place to make the most of it. Here, the doing is the relaxing.

Our boutique accommodation, Alcazar Palm Springs, at the base of the mountains, had a pool with deck chairs and an endless supply of iced lemon and cucumber water. It was the perfect place to snatch a few quiet moments to read. At JW Marriott Desert Springs, I spent as much time as possible exploring the multiple pools and shaded seating areas, distracted from my book by all the activities - golfers taking to the tee, families riding boats on the lake, even a wedding.

At the end of it all, with warm, tired muscles, a full belly, and a brain full of new information about history, architecture and art, it was time to embrace what the area is perhaps most famous for. Fine, I'll spa if I must!

Robe and slippers on. Chilled water bottle in hand. Birds chirping, spring water bubbling. Sun beaming down, shade dappling the ground and deck chairs. I entered my own little hut at the Two Bunch Palms spa in Desert Hot Springs for a full-body massage and tried not to fall asleep, I didn't want to miss a moment. Tie up the robe, sunnies on, back out to rotate between private hot spring spas, the warm rainforest pool, the cool swimming area, the outdoor showers.

I've never felt more at peace leaving a holiday, embracing the true meaning of 'taking a break' for perhaps the first time.

The writer was a guest of Visit Greater Palm Springs