Forget diets and digital detox - this Australian retreat has something bigger in mind

The flames slowly started licking around the paper, closely written on both sides. "Burn, baby, burn," said the 40-ish woman as she watched it consumed by the fire. It was the last night of my four-day retreat at Gwinganna and the fire ceremony was our final activity before bed. Manish Mallas, "The Modern Monk", one of the specialist practitioners, had invited us to write down something we wanted to be rid of. One by one, we committed our scribblings to the flames.

I'd arrived at Gwinganna rather less interested in burning my innermost thoughts than in finding out how to keep my brain firing at the Live. Life. Well - Brain Health retreat. I was open-minded on the steep, winding drive up to Gwinganna with glimpses back towards the coast. But nothing compares with the view - or the experiences - up top.

It wasn't my first visit. Twenty-seven years ago my friend and then owner, the late Kevin Weldon AO, invited me for cooking classes with American chef Joanne Weir.

No health retreat then, rather "Kevin's playground", an extraordinary property he created high over the Tallebudgera Valley where his pioneering spirit extended beyond his business life. I was touched to see the little church and his other relocated buildings; the helicopter hangar (now part of the gym), cricket grandstand and old Queenslanders alongside newer buildings.

Tony de Leede bought Gwinganna in 2003, opening his dream health retreat in 2006, expanding without sweeping away what Kevin created. When Kevin and his wife Glenda returned a decade later, she beamed, "You haven't touched the heritage, you've just added more." She spotted a favourite book she had left, in exactly the same place. Tony gave it to her.

That philosophy of adding and improving still applies. Now celebrating its 20th anniversary, Gwinganna remains grounded in its original four pillars of nutrition, movement, sleep and emotional wellbeing, but much has evolved.

General manager Melanie James explains the retreat is now connecting its founding wellness principles with science, while expanding its focus on nature immersion. "People are seeking more nature experiences, and they are also fundamental to wellness," she says.

Neuroscientist Dr Hayley North sees another shift coming, with the future of wellness increasingly grounded in big data. The science has become more sophisticated but, refreshingly, Gwinganna hasn't become a temple to technology. There's no "woo woo" here. Signature retreats now run alongside specialist programs like mine, allowing guests to move between concurrent lectures and activities.

At my first lunch, I was seated with five women completing their weekend retreat, glowing, friendly and keen to share. One had arrived stressed and overwhelmed; now she felt "lighter", her head clear. Another said it was "transformational", an oft-repeated description. I was happy to surrender to whatever came up.

"Surrender" is right because relinquishing control is part of the experience. Forget your diary and phone. When I asked when my treatments would be, the response was: "Do you need to know?" Apparently I didn't. A card at breakfast advises your treatments.

Days begin at 6am with Qigong to welcome the sunrise, followed by Yin or Yang activities - gentler or more challenging walks and exercise classes - then seminars. As someone who exercises regularly, I chose the Yang walk - only to be grateful a staff member was bringing up the rear.

Afternoons bring treatments and guests float out of the spa delightfully dazed. In my 105-minute Rest & Restore Experience, Cathy gave much more than a massage. For her "It's not a job, but a passion, to motivate and encourage people to reach their full potential in life."

Nothing is compulsory, yet on my first full day I didn't return to my spacious Boorabee Villa, with its infrared sauna and deck plunge pool, until after dinner. A different affirmation card was left on my bed daily. No TV so happily to bed and up naturally at 5.47am. It just worked. I agreed with the 40-year-old who gifted herself the retreat: "I can't believe I've kept this from myself for so long."

Every detail is intentional. Retreats under five days allow morning coffee, from a fun barista presenting a daily brain teaser. No dairy, gluten or wine though, part of Gwinganna's approach to reducing potentially inflammatory foods. Easy when the food is so good: bountiful, delicious and cooked with extra virgin olive oil. Chef Justin Addie explained that menus are designed across the entire day with the naturopath.

Much comes from Gwinganna's own organic garden, the kitchen following its SLOW philosophy - seasonal, local, organic and whole. Beef, chicken, fish and duck are included. Deprivation is not the aim. Breakfast of Eggs Florentine with olive corn bread, spinach, hollandaise and smoked paprika was the best I've ever had. We rotate assigned tables daily, getting to know other guests.

Bob called his first visit "life-changing": going without sugar, he lost 4kg in five days. He was back, slim and athletic despite his age.

Neurotherapist Cameron Oates gives us something immediately useful: "Four to Restore", a simple breathing, gratitude and affirmation technique to move us out of the stress response. I've since used it at home.

Electrodes attached to my head, I have a qEEG brain mapping session with him, followed by a Zoom consultation at home. While there's good news, it identifies signs of an overactive stress response and gives me practical strategies. I am intrigued.

Endorsements flow from repeat guests. Mike has visited 13 times in four years, describing Gwinganna as "a fire hydrant of information". Elizabeth has been eight times in three years. She laughingly told them, "You're either doing something right or you haven't fixed me yet".

I left refreshed, with practical strategies I'm actually using. I am determined to return for at least five days. For several mornings after my return, I still wake at 5.47am. Apparently Gwinganna isn't quite finished with me.

The writer was a guest of Gwinganna