An 800-year-old garden provides the backdrop for modern indulgence.


Where: 445-3, Myohoin Maekawa-cho, Higashiyama-ku, 605-0932 Kyoto
How much: From $US900 ($1282) per night
Explore more: fourseasons.com/kyoto
Simply arriving at Four Seasons Hotel Kyoto, set around an 800-year-old Japanese garden, is enough to instil a sense of calm. On a late-afternoon walk, I'm drawn to the pond at its centre, where ducks drift and koi glide beneath the surface. And just as I'm about to settle in for a traditional tea ceremony in the hotel's old-style Tea House by the water, a svelte heron lands on one of the pond's rocky islets. Opened in 2016, the hotel will celebrate its 10th anniversary in October this year. But despite the passage of time, it looks as good as new inside. And as for outside, that's just timeless.
Located on the foot of a mountain, in the quiet temple district of Higashiyama, the hotel is far removed from Kyoto's main tourist track. But if you want to be in the middle of the action, sites such as the famous Gion district and the iconic Fushimi Inari Shrine - with more than 10,000 vermillion torii gates - are just a short taxi ride away.

In true Four Seasons style, the property is contemporary, with pared-back interiors. But a closer look reveals there are nods to local culture and motifs at every turn - from the vast Japanese-umbrella-inspired ceiling over the driveway to the lobby that feels like a local's living room, with low seating and privacy screens. Even the artworks sprinkled throughout the hotel reference the site, including the one with seven stones, found in the centuries-old garden at the time of the build. An elderly woman playing koto - a traditional Japanese string instrument - in the lobby further adds to the atmosphere.

There are 180 rooms at the hotel, and even the smallest ones offer 52 square metres of real estate. I'm staying on the fifth floor in a Premium Heritage Garden Room, which is about that large, but it has a big floor-to-ceiling glass window overlooking the garden and the pond, making the room feel even more spacious. When it comes to creature comforts, my lair ticks all the boxes: there's a king-sized bed, a separate sitting area, a large work desk, lots of storage space, a coffee machine and a well-stocked mini bar. The ensuite is just as impressive, with twin sinks, an oversized bathtub, a large shower and a smart Japanese toilet.
The hotel's garden-facing Emba Kyoto Grill is open all day. Grab a table outside for breakfast and order the fluffy blueberry pancakes, while for lunch or dinner, stick with the set menus, which showcase the region's best ingredients and culinary techniques. For the ultimate dining experience, though, make your way to Sushi Ginza Onodera, where there's room for just 10 diners on a table made of a 400-year-old cypress tree. Leave your dietaries at the door because ebullient chef Takuya Kubo's omakase (which translates to "I leave it to you") menu of bite-sized sushi, sashimi and other Japanese delicacies depends entirely on the day's freshest produce.
The garden, the enormous gym, the spa, a 20-metre indoor pool as well as complimentary origami and Japanese calligraphy workshops in the lobby ... there's a lot to keep one occupied inside the property. But if time permits, sign up for the hotel's Fushimi Inari Shrine hike, which takes guests to one of Japan's most famous landmarks through the back entrance, avoiding tourists.

Tuna from Miyagi prefecture - served in a kyo-yaki bowl handmade in Kyoto - at the hotel's Sushi Ginza Onodera restaurant.
The writer was a guest of the hotel

Akash is the Deputy Travel Editor for Australian Community Media. He has lived and worked in four cities around the world – Sydney, London, New Delhi and New York – and, at last count, travelled to 42 countries.
My all-time favourite destination is ... New York. You can drop a pin anywhere in Manhattan and start walking in any direction, and the sights and sounds of the city that never stops will begin to stimulate all your senses in an instant.
Next on my bucket list is … Scandinavia - at the peak of summer, when the sun almost never sets.
My top travel tip is … If you’re flying to Sydney from anywhere in the world, pick a window seat far from the wing on the left-hand-side of the aeroplane. If the weather gods and flight path align, you’ll have the most incredible views of the Sydney Harbour and Opera House.






