I used to be a small-ship snob, but I have changed my mind - here's why

Out of my 120 cruises, about half of the ships have been big. This was not always by choice. In my former jobs, as editor of Cruise Weekly and Cruise Critic, I had to review lots of new megaliners. But I really wanted to do more luxury lines, expeditions and river cruising. These seemed more my style, as someone without kids, who likes her peace and quiet, good food and wine, top-notch service, and meeting like-minded people.

I embarked on a mission to do smaller ships, which certainly provided those things. Then, something went wrong. I went too far. The ships got too small. Correction: the ships were perfectly lovely, but there weren't enough passengers. Couples didn't mingle, and solo guests clung to me. If a tiny vessel had only one bar, one restaurant and one choice of shore excursion, it tarnished the experience for me.

When I was invited to try the world's biggest cruise ship, I was ready. Royal Caribbean's Legend of the Seas launched last week, boasting 20 decks with 43 places to eat or drink, and more amenities than a theme park, family resort and wellness retreat combined.

Weirdly, it was much easier to find quiet spaces. But it makes sense because there are so many venues to choose from, which thins the crowd. The open-air Central Park was serene, 1400 Lobby Bar was never busy, and The Overlook lounge has private pods where I could work with my laptop, completely unbothered.

When I felt like socialising, I headed to The Hideaway, an adults-only aft deck with wake views, outdoor bar, infinity pool and DJ. At night, I went to Duelling Pianos, a lively lounge with two pianists who had the crowd singing and laughing until 1am.

I could not fault the food, service or entertainment. The crew were friendly and efficient, and I enjoyed every meal and every show.