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The unexpected vantage point that unlocks the world's best birdwatching

From Norway to South Georgia, this high perch offers prime views for twitchers.

Heimaey Island Puffins on a cruise with Atlas Ocean Voyages.
Heimaey Island Puffins on a cruise with Atlas Ocean Voyages.
Louise Goldsbury
September 9, 2026

Making eye contact with an albatross, flying almost within arm's reach, I wonder how else this experience could happen. Cruising along at the same pace, at the same height, we can look at each other side-by-side in a way that's only possible on a high deck of an expedition ship. I grin goofily, marvelling at this cool connection with a wild and free creature, wondering if he's thinking the same thing. It's a simple moment that lasts five seconds and turns me into a twitcher.

I start looking for more birdy encounters on cruises. In the Scottish Isles, I join a hike on the tiny island of Staffa, where puffins are known to gather. Beyond my expectations, we find hundreds of them nesting on a clifftop.

As they fly in from the Atlantic Ocean, they touch down on the grass in front of us. For an hour, we giggle at their furious flapping and clownish faces. (Sorry, puffins, you're just too cute.)

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Arctic cruises often stop at Bear Island, which has no bears but thousands of seabirds. Zipping around in a zodiac with Atlas Ocean Voyages, we see more puffins, guillemots, kittiwakes, fulmars, razorbills, gannets and little auks.

These same species can be found at Gjesvaerstappan, near Norway's North Cape, where boat safaris are offered as excursions on Havila Voyages, Royal Caribbean, Viking, Princess, MSC and Celebrity, Cruises.

The Galapagos is home to huge numbers of endemic bird species, especially on North Seymour Island, an overwhelming scene of swooping, squawking and shagging. Unfazed by human presence, blue-footed boobies perform their adorable mating dance.

But my jaw drops when I witness a great frigatebird inflate his red throat like a balloon, bloated to half his body size. Weird way to flirt with females, but fascinating.

Clothesline in a cabin.
Clothesline in a cabin.

The standout site for pelagic birders is South Georgia Island, which is part of extended itineraries to Antarctica. This is the voyage where I have my moment with the "king of the ocean".

Expect to see millions of albatrosses and penguins in several varieties, as well as petrels, prions, shearwaters and skuas. A similar population lives among New Zealand's Subantarctic islands, where I spotted seven species of penguins.

Dedicated birdwatching cruises are run by Oceanwide Expeditions, but you'll see plenty of birdlife in these remote destinations, without even trying (or flying).

Go Gadgets: Cabin clothesline

Not all cruise ships have self-service laundries, so your choices are over-packing or over-paying for the cruise line's laundry services. To save costs, I handwash items and then hang them around the bathroom, on doorknobs, hooks and chairs. It's not a pretty sight. Navero, an online travel gear store launched by twin Australian brothers, sells a range of nifty products to clean up your laundry act. The cabin clothesline is retractable and comes with 20 pegs ($24.95). Bundle it with the foldable laundry basket, magnetic hooks and detergent sheets to save 10 per cent. navero.com.au

Louise Goldsbury
Louise is the Cruise Explorer columnist for ACM. Over the past 20 years, she has sailed on more than 100 ocean, river and expedition cruises in seven continents.

My all-time favourite destination is … Antarctica, but three times is greedy.

Next on my bucket list is … Africa, Maldives, Philippines, Cuba, NZ subantarctic islands, Iceland, Greenland, and three months on a round-the-world cruise.

My top travel tip is … If you're turned off by the stereotype of big ships, start with your dream destination and book the smallest ship you can afford - preferably all-inclusive, so you can fully relax and enjoy.