Angkor is one of the world's most visited sites - I found a way to beat the rush

It's dusk at Cambodia's majestic Angkor Wat temple and I've been transfixed for the previous hour. Intensified by the golden glow of the dipping sun, intricate carvings and motifs emerge from the temple's sandstone pillars. Surprisingly, few visitors are here for this magical sunset. It's a different story at sunrise, however, when hundreds jostle for position to catch the ubiquitous image - the temple reflected in the water, a 190-metre-wide moat that surrounds this extraordinary structure. But give me "people-free" any day.

Located within a vast area, six kilometres from Siem Reap, Angkor Wat - one of the world's largest religious temples - was built in the 12th century during the reign of King Suryavarman II. As the dwelling of Vishnu, it also represented the divine palace for the king after death. Its status lives on as Cambodia's national symbol. But there's a lot more to Angkor than its wat (temple).

Another 70 major temples (of more than 1000) are accessible to visitors within the larger Angkor complex, a former capital of the mighty Khmer Empire. The area is now preserved as the Angkor Archaeological Park, a rich, jungle-covered UNESCO World Heritage Site. As a first-time visitor to Cambodia, I hadn't appreciated Angkor's magnitude. But I'm soon set straight by Nick Ray, a respected Cambodia expert who's written Lonely Planet's Cambodia guide since 1998 and is a fixer for film and television with Hanuman Films.

"Imagine if you took a map of London and you stripped away all the human habitation and office blocks and all that's left is the cathedrals. That's kind of where we are with Angkor. "Angkor Wat" might be considered London's "St Pauls", but we've also got a "Westminster Abbey" and numerous other great buildings," says Ray. I need to recalibrate my approach to the area; I've completely underestimated the time required.

So what's the best way to tackle Angkor?

Ray recommends spending a minimum of three days so you can take your time and not get "templed out". He advises to head to Angkor Wat at the end, not the beginning, of your visit. In this way, the other locations are less likely to be let-downs, despite the fact that, as Ray says, "if the smaller temples were anywhere else in the world they'd be the major sights."

To prepare for my exploration of Angkor the following day, I watch Angkor: The Lost Empire of Cambodia, a captivating 3D-IMAX documentary (40 minutes) that covers the Khmer Empire. Screened nightly at 8pm at Sala Kon Cinema at Montra Nivesha Hotel, it gives me important background and fills me with anticipation. I can't wait to tour the site, arranged for the following day.

We're up early to meet our guide, Rithy, and driver who transports us to the starting point of Hanuman Travel's Hidden Trails of Angkor e-bike tour. Once kitted out with helmet and bike and with e-gear engaged, I follow Rithy into the thick greenery. It's thrilling. We wind our way along a jungle path, enveloped by a lush, green canopy. Our first stop, Banteay Kdei Temple, features a series of striking faces that give me goosebumps. We continue to the North Gate of Ta Prohm, nicknamed the "jungle temple" for its massive tangle of banyan tree roots that envelop the ruins (Lara Croft: Tomb Raider was filmed here; Ray was the local fixer on the movie). Next up is the striking pyramid-style Ta Keo Temple. We pedal onwards through the jungle to the East Gate, gateway to Angkor Thom, a massive fortified complex. Our path runs atop the seven-metre-high wall that overlooks the moat. (It's one of many "wow!" moments.) Temple fever continues at Bayon, the "face temple" within Angkor Thom. Finally, several hours before sunset, we arrive at Angkor Wat, the climax. I'm exhilarated.

We wander intently along the lines of intricate bas-reliefs while Rithy translates these epic tales of wars and enlightenment. Rithy's knowledge is profound; his life is integral to Angkor, it transpires.

Born on the Angkor Wat site during the time of the Khmer Rouge, Rithy later entered the temple's monastery as a novice (child) monk. His appreciation for the spiritual and historical, as well as his gentle, charismatic personality, make him the perfect guide. But if you want to go alone, you can. It's easy to arrange a driver of a remork-moto (a tuktuk variant), private van or taxi in Siem Reap. Download the smartphone app "Grab", Asia's "Uber" equivalent.

As for etiquette? Respect is crucial here and I'm happy to see that visitors heed the dress code: clothing should reach both elbows and knees (gym shorts are a no-no) and hats must be removed when entering temple buildings. Females should never touch a Buddhist monk, including when handing something over.

The next day, I wander through the Angkor National Museum, a contemporary space showcasing the Khmer Empire through Khmer art, culture and architecture. It's a "must do" for context, although - as with Angkor - on my next visit to Cambodia (for I'm now hooked), I'll allow significantly more time.

The writer's Hidden Trails of Angkor e-bike tour was courtesy of Hanuman Travel