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Why these cheap eats beat an expensive degustation every time

What is a Michelin Bib Gourmand and why should travellers care?

Opinion
Bangkok's Rung Rueang Tung noodle shop. Picture supplied
Bangkok's Rung Rueang Tung noodle shop. Picture supplied
Michael Turtle
October 11, 2026

Walking into the Bangkok restaurant and sitting down on a stool, a laminated menu is slapped down on the metal table in front of me. The names of the dishes are in Thai, just a few have English translations. Thankfully there are photos and I already know what I want: the signature dish of noodle soup with five types of pork (including minced pork and pork balls).

I watch my dish being cooked at a counter at the edge of the restaurant, a portable gas stove keeping the broth warm. There are no walls on that side, just open air where roller doors will be pulled down overnight, so motorbikes scoot past just a metre from the food preparation. As the steaming bowl is brought over to me, I reach inside a plastic container for cutlery, grab a tissue from the dispenser to wipe them down, and dig into my lunch.

Michelin's Bib Gourmand logo. Picture supplied
Michelin's Bib Gourmand logo. Picture supplied

It's delicious and it's cheap, costing just a few dollars for a hearty bowl of noodles. Yet proudly displayed on the sign out front is the reason I've come here - the Michelin Guide logo.

In the coming week, Michelin will be releasing its latest guide, this time for South Australia. It's the first time there's been a Michelin Guide to any part of Australia, so it's a big deal for the state and for the country. There will understandably be a lot of attention on the wonderful restaurants that are awarded stars, especially those with two or three. There'll also be coverage of the regions where these restaurants are concentrated (Adelaide, of course, but presumably the Barossa and other wine regions too).

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But the first thing I'll be looking for is the list of restaurants that have been awarded a Bib Gourmand. This is the award given to place that serves high quality food, but at an affordable price. It's all about value, often with a focus on generous portions or a relaxed atmosphere. It's what Rung Rueang Tung, that noodle shop in Bangkok, was recognised for. And it's the kind of place I prefer to seek out over a ten-course degustation that will cost me hundreds of dollars.

Bib Gourmands can sometimes just be simple street food. In Mexico City, Los Cocuyos demonstrates that you don't need tablecloths or formal service to catch the eye of the Michelin judges. It's an unpretentious cash-only street stand that's been operating since 1980, simmering its meats in a giant metal cauldron. You'll find cleaver-chopped suadero, cabeza, and al pastor tacos served late into the night.

Tacos at Mexico City's Los Cocuyos. Picture Getty Images
Tacos at Mexico City's Los Cocuyos. Picture Getty Images

Although it's not quite street food, Singapore's hawker markets often have that same atmosphere, and you'll also find some Bib Gourmands hidden among these cheap eats. One of the best known is Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice, which is famous for its fragrant master-stock-cooked rice served with perfectly tender chicken and a sharp chilli-garlic sauce.

And in Hanoi, Pho Ga Nguyet has a Bib Gourmand for its excellent chicken noodle soup, one of thousands you'll find in Vietnam's capital for just a couple of dollars. Its signature dish is a dry version of pho, where the rice noodles and chicken are tossed in a savoury soy-vinegar dressing and served with a side of hot broth.

Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice in Singapore. Picture Shutterstock
Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice in Singapore. Picture Shutterstock

While those fancy restaurants with all their stars may sometimes have local dishes, it's actually quite common that they're serving French cuisine - even though they're nowhere near France - or something else that's considered globally prestigious. But these Bib Gourmands that I love? More often than not, they'll give you a snapshot into local culture or culinary history.

Yoshoku Edoya in Tokyo, for instance, offers a glimpse into a very specific slice of time: post-war Tokyo. It's been operating since 1954 out of a former confectionery shop and serves nostalgic yoshoku (Western-influenced Japanese comfort food) like omurice and hamburger steaks.

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It's a similar story at Trattoria Da Burde in Florence. Founded in 1901, it's a wonderful example of a historic Tuscan enoteca (wine shop) and trattoria, where you can get incredible bistecca alla fiorentina or hearty ribollita. Or Bonnie's in New York is a loud energetic tribute to Cantonese-American diner culture... although it's got some serious creativity. Don't be surprised to find MSG martinis, salt-and-pepper shrimp tossed with melted red onions, and whole crispy fish served with lettuce cups.

These Bib Gourmands can be traditional, like Auberge Pyrenees Cevennes in Paris, which is a quintessential old-school bistro experience. It's got brass rails, tiled floors and the generous portions that define traditional French country cooking. But they can also be modern, like Mocoto in Sao Paulo, where the rustic food of Brazil's arid northeast region has been turned into one of the country's most celebrated dining experiences, with its signature tapioca dice and hearty slow-cooked cow's foot stew.

Pâté en crote at Auberge Pyrenees Cevennes in Paris. Picture supplied
Pâté en crote at Auberge Pyrenees Cevennes in Paris. Picture supplied

Even though Mocoto now has a reputation as a cool and innovative restaurant, it's still affordable and accessible - certainly compared to other restaurants in Sao Paulo with a Michelin logo. If you want to go, price is normally not the barrier. Getting a table might be, though, because some of these places can get very busy.

But at Rung Rueang Tung, that noodle restaurant in Bangkok, I had no problem getting a seat. It was only slightly busier than any other restaurants in the area. And you know why? Because it was probably only slightly better. In many cases, a Bib Gourmand label doesn't mean it's the best in the city, it just means it's one of the best. And that's what I love. If I want to try a local speciality, I have an automatic recommendation for a good place that's casual and affordable. So, with that in mind, I'm looking forward to some new recommendations this coming week for South Australia.

Michael Turtle
Michael Turtle is an Australian journalist who left his job in television
to travel the world forever. He'll show you how to find the lesser-known
places, get involved in the culture, learn the history, and meet locals
along the way.