Bali's food scene is exploding - here's our pick of the 12 best eateries right now

1. LONGTIME, CANGGU: Chef Tyler Preston (formerly of Melbourne's Chin Chin) sure knows modern Asian cuisine. The broad-lens culinary love-in at new Longtime features favourites from across Asia, including honey-glazed Hong Kong pork neck char siu, nutty chilled Szechuan noodles and Malay fried chicken. For a creative twist, try the beef rendang spring rolls or chilli burrata, which is served with puffed up house-made roti. The fancy-cum-cool, high-ceilinged venue is equally good for date nights as it is for big-group feasting. longtimebali.com

2. SANTANERA, CANGGU: Sometimes it's a single dish that draws you back to a restaurant. At Santanera, it's at least three: the duck and wild mushroom empanadas, potato mille-feuille, and chilli-sprinkled chargrilled octopus drizzled with a lemon emulsion. With its huge arched windows, wall murals and old-world Latino vibe, the resto is Latin American at heart, but Colombian chefs Andres Beccera and German Rincon have successfully dosed the menu with hints of the Mediterranean and south-east Asia. Sip mezcal negronis on the rooftop and South American red wine at the bar. santanerabali.com

3. SAZON, CANGGU: Sazon is part of the new Regent Canggu Bali but you wouldn't know it. The funky resto with a stool-busy central bar has street access off Batu Bolong, a bustling strip shared by some of Bali's best eateries. The menu is inspired by the Mediterranean, but chef Javier Vicente evidently has his Spanish homeland at heart when he cooks up (best-shared) grilled seafood paella, potato and onion tortilla, and crisp patatas bravas with garlic aioli. Start with beer sangria and end with sangria ice-cream. sazonbali.com

4. 2 BULAN, UBUD: Thai restaurant 2 Bulan in Ubud's lovely Nyuh Kuning neighbourhood is owned by Indian-born expat Shrey Gaurishankar, a foodie whose dishes are "unapologetically inauthentic" and inspired by a deliberate desire to push culinary boundaries. Come for the grilled pork skewers or green chicken curry, but don't leave without trying the Tokusen wagyu rib eye served with sweet and sour nam jim jaew sauce and a decadent dob of house-made massaman butter. True to creative form, Gaurishankar pairs the nosh with a natural wine list "just like they do in Bangkok these days". 2bulanbali.com

5. KUBU AT MANDAPA, UBUD: Kubu Restaurant on the riverside at Mandapa resort is helmed by chef Eka Sunarya, whose Bali childhood - spent foraging for leaves, shoots, beans, seeds and fruits - is inspo for his root-to-leaf fine-dining philosophy. Eka's Kubu Experience menu, a special-occasion go-to, is a culinary journey of produce found within 100 kilometres of the restaurant, including duck in aromatic consomme from an organic farm in Baturiti; and heritage black pork with sweet potato bomboloni from a farm in Bedugul. kubuatmandapa.com

6. MAURI, SEMINYAK: Maurizio Bombini, chef-owner of Mauri, grew up in Puglia and though his heart and home are now in Bali, his cuisine "connects diners with the true Italian flavours". Considering the contemporary crisp white dining room, these origin tastes almost come as a surprise: the mortadella on a delicious one-bite semi-dried tomato and burrata tartelettes, the 24-month aged Parmigiano stuffed into ravioli, the tomato and caper espuma on a succulent piece of cod. Spritzers, negronis, prosecco are the go, naturally. mauri-restaurant.com

7. CHUPACABRAS, UBUD: Chupacabras sits in a two-storey pavilion overlooking the jungle crevasse either side of the Ayung River. The to-die-for setting is duly matched by chef Mauro Santarelli's Argentinian-skewed menu that gives South American culinary traditions a contemporary spin. Warm up with Wagyu beef empanadas, smoky tomato salad and scallop ceviche before choosing a steak from a selection brought to the table. While it's cooking on the open grill, a "salsa sommelier" helps pair your choice with a spicy nice-y array of condiments, chimichurri included. chupacabrasbali.com

8. BEGAWAN BIJI, UBUD: Over the years, the owners of Begawan Biji have revived the population of near-extinct native Bali starlings. Now they're regenerating the near-lost mansur heritage rice grain through local farming. That the four-hectare property also has a zero-waste and uniquely organic restaurant in a stunner traditional two-storey wantilan pavilion is another reason to high-five them. Come for a walk around the edible gardens and coconut forest, and stay for an upscale nasi goreng like no other on the island. begawanbiji.com

9. MASONRY, ULUWATU: The seven-year-old iconic Bali eatery known as Mason has evolved into Masonry, a refreshed name to better illustrate an artisanal ethos where quality food is made from scratch and cooked on a roaring wood-fired grill. The island's best hummus (I swear) is laced with burnt chilli butter and is a forerunner to other pyro palate pleasers, including charcoal chicken with lemon aioli, and Wagyu kofta with scorched nuts. Think open-air, ceiling fans, cushioned pews and people watching. masonrybali.com/uluwatu

10. SYRCO BASE, UBUD: Syrco Base has recently transitioned from a degustation focus to a new "casually conscious" a la carte menu, putting it in the mix for everyday dining. It's the culinary creation of Dutch chef Syrco Bakker, who has successfully cross-pollinated his Euro cooking skills with his grandparents' Indonesian roots. The menu is all local, from the central kitchen garden to the islands of the archipelago, and includes the likes of Javanese beef fillet in rendang marinade, and Lombok oysters garnished with cashews and cemcem leaf. Cocktails are plant-forward, and Bali-made tipples get a look-in too. syrcobase.com

11. RED GUNPOWER, PERERENAN: Under the twinkling tree lights on Pererenan's (only) strollable street, Red Gunpowder is a rare treat for both the setting and cracker contemporary Indian menu. Chef Chris Smith, a long-ago Scotsman, has mastered the mysteries of a vindaloo oven, serving the likes of slow-cooked octopus marinated in spiced ginger masala, and duck confit with strawberry chutney. Pair these with gravy-rich korma, makhami and Goan claypot curries best mopped up with tandoor-fresh naan and roti. The terracotta pots, eclectic mix of colourful dinner plates and live sitar music (every Thursday) add to the charm. redgunpowderbali.com

12. HUJAN LOCALE, UBUD: Shout out to chef-owner Will Meyrick, who has the golden touch when it comes to epic dining. All five of his Bali restaurants rock but kudos goes mostly to Hujan Locale for its deep dive into Indonesia's archipelagic flavours. Settle into the downstairs bar for a coconut mojito or chilli-lime margarita, then saunter upstairs to an enchanting dining room with shutters opening onto Ubud's temple rooftops. Slow cooked pork belly, crisp whole fish and smoked duck are favourites on the grazing menu. There's also a spice-free kids selection. hujanlocale.com