Old vines, new thrills: how the Barossa is reinventing tradition

The Barossa is full of old deep roots. Figuratively... and literally. When the vine-eating louse called phylloxera decimated vineyards from France to New South Wales in the late 19th century, much of the world was forced to graft their old European vines onto new American phylloxera-resistant roots. But the Barossa, because of strict quarantine, never got the pest. The vineyards planted here in the 1800s are the originals, technically making them some of the oldest in the world.

I learn this as I drive around the Barossa with local award-winning viticulturist Dylan Grigg, who's telling tales of early settlers, of farms passed down through generations, of vines ripped out for shifting tastes, and of boutique producers who are now pushing the envelope with new styles.

"All the wineries will have a nod to tradition and we're working with traditional varieties on very old soil, but there are also ways of reinventing tradition and an evolution that's moving with the times," he explains.

For people who've visited before and focused on the renowned shiraz of this South Australian wine region, it's interesting to discover that not only is grenache now in the spotlight, but the varietal's three colours (gris, blanc, and noir) all have a starring role, ancient gnarled vines given new life. There are also plenty of smaller winemakers playing with unusual grapes or techniques - Tscharke, Spinifex, and Eperosa are just a few Dylan recommends.

"There are so many things that would surprise," he says. "Because people think of Penfolds or Jacobs Creek, but on almost every corner there's another operation that would be a great visit."

Dylan Grigg doesn't normally run tours but he's giving me a mini preview of a special one-off day trip he and local chef Clare Falzon are hosting on May 9 as part of SA's Tasting Australia food festival. While many of the festival's events are in Adelaide, this Tasting Australia by Road excursion visits four Barossa locations (chosen by Dylan and Clare) to meet producers and taste their food and drinks.

Of course, one of those stops is Clare's restaurant Staguni, which was recently named Gourmet Traveller's Best South Australian Restaurant and Best Australian Destination Dining. When Dylan drops me off and I sit down for lunch, I can immediately see it's part of the "reinventing tradition" story. An old regional schoolhouse, beautifully restored with a wine menu written on the chalkboard, has been painted and furnished like a Parisian neighbourhood bistro.

Clare tells me the environment should feel approachable, just like the dishes, which although they're based on her fine dining experience around the world, don't look overcomplicated - a tuna and tomato dip with sourdough, sardines on toast with tomato ricotta, a sweet and sour eggplant galette.

"Even if they're not obvious to everyone, I know that the dishes are created with those skills in mind, which I hope translates when people eat it," she explains. Rather than old vines grafted onto new roots, it's perhaps the other way around in the Barossa.

I also find that blend of tradition and modern style at The Louise, one of the Barossa's top luxury accommodations, where I'm basing myself for this stay. From any of the 15 villa-style suites or from the infinity pool, you look out over the undulating green hills of vineyards, perhaps with a glass of their end product from the included wine list. Glance up at the walls instead and you'll find colourful and vibrant pieces of modern art sourced from a local gallery.

And at The Louise's restaurant, Appellation, the included five-course degustation uses fresh local produce to reflect the seasons you can see in the panoramic landscapes through the large windows (at least until the sun goes down... I should've arrived earlier for cocktail hour). But even after dusk, I can taste the land and its terroirs in the wine pairings that come with each dish.

But the highlight of our tour is the Centennial Cellar, a large room above the original winery where rows of barrels act like a historic abacus or calendar counting the years. Each barrel represents a vintage of tawny, enclosed each year and then not touched for a century! Started in 1878, it is the only unbroken lineage of single-vintage wines in the world. Penny dips into the 1926 vintage, just opened, to pour me a small glass of liquid put here during the reign of King George V, before we had penicillin or talking movies. It feels like I'm tasting history.

Joining Dylan Grigg and Clare Falzon for their tour next month will give you special access to some producers and locations that aren't always accessible to the public. But visit independently any time and there are still countless experiences here in the Barossa, whether it's boutique winemakers, modern art or aged tawny. The old roots may grow deep but the vines are constantly bearing new fruit.

Michael was a guest of South Australian Tourism Commission. You can see more things to do in South Australia on his Time Travel Turtle website.