Forget the tourist traps - this is Sri Lanka's real coastal magic

Negombo Beach on Sri Lanka's west coast is known for its long stretch of golden-hued sand, bath-warm waters and sun-driven sports: surfing, volleyball and kitesurfing. But stroll along the ocean's edge and you'll quickly see the local narrative unfold as fishermen prepare to set sail in traditional Oruwas - handmade outrigger canoes that have been used for millennia. I wandered along the beach spotting sails painted burnt orange, brown and crimson, with vanilla-coloured centres, glide over white-capped waves. Billowing pieces of hessian cloth propelled the outriggers along. Some fishermen, after returning from their morning catch, offered mini-rides to passersby (pictured). The window into the fishing community came full circle as I walked further. Boats brimming with silver fish were being hauled from the sea by lines of men and women working in unison. Side-by-side they sorted fish, fixed nets and chatted while sustaining their livelihood.