Insider guide to Chiang Mai: hidden cocktails and 'life-changing' chicken rice

There's a coolness to Chiang Mai. Something about the way it hums along, far away from the intensity of Bangkok. Best of all, because it is a little quieter, you can walk, tuk tuk, cab - even bicycle if you're brave enough - and enjoy the whole of the city at a elaxed pace. Between the craft coffee scene, canteen culture, listening bars, vintage stores, grand hotels and cosy guesthouses, northern Thailand's mountain city is one of the most exciting places to eat, drink, listen and stay.

You'll want to book ahead for Rasik Kitchen (44/3 Sridonchai Road, Chang Khlan), a cult favourite amongst chefs and food lovers where hot, puffy omelettes are cooked in pork lard, and tender beef tongue is bathed in a spicy northern-style curry sauce. On the other hand, Huen Muan Jai (24 Ratchaphuek Alley, Chang Phueak) takes no bookings. It's a matter of showing up and waiting patiently until someone yells your name into a microphone. Make sure to try the Thai-style beef jerky, crisp pork belly, braised pork curry and sticky rice.

This one's for the vinyl enthusiasts and music lovers. Deaf Shop (36 Prapokklao Road, Tambon Phra Sing) offers a relaxed place to peruse a massive range of new and vintage records spanning punk, hip hop and reggae. Or simply grab a drink and enjoy the tunes. Fung Record Bar (46 Pra Pok Klao Rd Soi 1, Tambon Phra Sing) specialises in highball cocktails. It's a little more subdued, with a smaller collection of music on offer, but no less rewarding when it comes to relaxed vibes.

The mountains surrounding Northern Thailand are prime real estate for growing coffee and tea, and the coffee culture in Chiang Mai is a wonderful representation of that. Order a cold coffee shaken with wild local honey at Your Project (185 187 Tha Phae Road, Tambon Chang Moi), a short walk from the historic Tha Phae gate. Or perhaps it'll be a plum and coffee soda or dirty coffee (that's a double shot of espresso poured over cold milk) at the extremely groovy Twenty Mar (216 Pra Pok Klao Rd Soi 1, Tambon Si Phum).

The journey, as they say, is just as important as the destination. It's certainly a large part of the appeal here, which involves finding the bar in the first place. Bar Not Found (161, 90-91 Sri Phum, Tambon Si Phum) is hidden behind one of four doors and inside, you'll find a craft cocktail bar offering drinks based on the colour wheel. Maybe it'll be a Charcoal Velvet: vodka, sherry, black olive, olive brine and olive jelly. Or perhaps a Salmon Blush: pisco, lychee, vanilla lime and ... gummy bear.

Midnight Sticky Rice and Chicken (139 Kampangdin Rd, Haiya Sub-district) is true street-side dining, with an al fresco kitchen, tables and chairs set up beside the busy road with no footpath. A short menu offers the likes of grilled fish, Northern-style sausage and signature juicy chicken. Don't miss the fried pork and sticky rice.

This open air snack market is the perfect place to try all your favourite dishes in one night. Purchase cold beers straight out of the ice-box and try the likes of northern-style sausages, barbecue pork and egg noodles, mango sticky rice and coconut ice-cream served in its own husk at Chang Phuak Gate Market (248/70 Manee Nopparat Rd, Tambon Si Phum).

Every evening, crowds gather around the outside of one little bar in Chiang Mai's Old Town. This is North Gate Jazz Co-op (91/1-2 Sri Poom Rd) where you can order a drink and catch live jazz until 1am every day of the week. It's become so popular, they actually had to open a little cocktail bar next door, North Gate Spirit, which also sells records and t-shirts.

The canteen culture in Chiang Mai is some of the most exciting eating on the planet. Here, you'll find places that offer no more than one or two variations on a single dish, such as the legendary Auan Ocha (Rachadamnoen Rd Soi 7) and their life-changing chicken rice dish (order a mixed plate of both poached and fried for maximum deliciousness) and Khao Soi Maesai (29, 1 Ratchaphuek Alley, Tambon Chang Phueak) for that traditional, peanutty Northern Thai curry with fried and slippery noodles.

Each Friday morning, Chin Haw Market (28/3-4 Changklan Rd, Chang Moi Sub-district) stretches out along the river, offering visitors and locals a taste of Chinese Muslim dishes and ingredients. Try fresh-smoked Yunnanese hams, black chicken soup and Chinese doughnuts. You'll need to get up early for this one - not to be missed.

There's no shortage of really sweet, affordable guesthouses in Chiang Mai but if you're willing to splash a little, The Intercontinental (153 Sridonchai Rd, Chang Khlan) offers a lot more luxury. The hotel is located in a fantastic part of town, where some of the best eating is right on your doorstep, as well as a world-class gym, exhaustive daily breakfast choices and a swim up bar.

The writer dined at her own expense